Expedition Mount Everest Southside - Express

Since Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary became the first people to set foot on top of the world on 29 May 1953, mountaineers from all over the world have been striving to climb Mount Everest. Climbing Chomulungma (Tibetan for ‘Mother Goddess of the Earth’) from its south side in Nepal is surely the most famous route on an 8,000m peak. Some of the most exciting chapters of Himalayan history have certainly been written on these slopes. There are now 20 routes to reach the top of Mount Everest, which is known as Sagarmatha meaning “The Head of the Earth touching Heaven” in Nepal.

Kari Kobler has run Everest expedition on both the north side in Tibet and the south side in Nepal since 2000. He reached the summit six times himself as a mountain guide. Over the years, Kari has developed an excellent system whereby our members who strive to climb an 8,000m peak in the Himalaya or the Karakorum get maximum safety, the greatest comfort and the best chances to reach the summit.

Parallel to our classic Everest expedition on the south side (50 days), we run our Everest Express Expedition (35 days). This is the perfect trip for Everest aspirants, who want to reach the top of the world but simply do not have enough time to join a two-month-expedition. In 2021, we were very successful with the first edition our Everest Express Expedition and reached the summit within 12 days from arriving at base camp.

It is possible to climb Mount Everest in 35 days and do so quickly and safely. This Everest trip requires expedition experience as well as pre-acclimatisation in a hypoxic tent at home. On this trip, we reach base camp more quickly than the classic trip; we offer two climbing Sherpa per member as well as maximum oxygen support during the ascent and a quick return home after the summit.

Day 1: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 2: Arrival in Kathmandu

Once we have arrived and had our first relaxed group meeting in the beautiful gardens of the Shangri La hotel, we will explore the centre of Kathmandu. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Kathmandu–Namche Bazar (3,440m)

A stunning helicopter flight takes us to the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar. Hotel accommodation.

Day 4: Namche Bazar (3,440m)

We hike to Khumjung (3,780m) and enjoy the magnificent views of Thamserku and Ama Dablam. Hotel accommodation.

Day 5: Namche Bazar (3,440m) - Pangpoche (3,985m) Lodge accommodation.

Day 6: Pangpoche (3,985m) - Dingboche (4,340m)

It’s a relatively short walk to Dingboche, which we will reach just in time for lunch during which we will enjoy the stunning view of the north side of Ama Dablam. In the afternoon, we will hike up Nagkartshang (5,068m) and cross the 5,000m mark for the first time. Lodge accommodation.

Day 7: Dingboche (4,340m) - Dzongla (4,840m)

Our lodge is idyllically situated on a meadow and offers a breathtakingly beautiful view of the north face of Cholatse. Lodge accommodation.

Day 8: Dzongla (4,840m) - Lobuje high camp (5,200m)

We ascend to Lobuje high camp in around 3 hours. The route takes us across steep grassy slopes and later across scree and rocky slabs. Tent accommodation.

Day 9: Lobuje high camp (5,200m) - Lobuje East (6,100m) - Lobuje Village (4,940m)

We get up in the dark and start our climb up Lobuje East in the light of our headlamps. We ascend the steep ridge all the way to the summit which is an excellent training for the more challenging sections on Mount Everest. We descend and continue to the village of Lobuje (4,930m). Lodge accommodation

Day 10: Lobuje Village (4,940m) - Everest base camp (5,300m)

Finally, we arrive at base camp, our home from home. Our Sherpa team has already worked hard to set up our comfortable base camp and welcomes us with a delicious dinner which is served in our heated mess tent.

Day 11 - 13: Rest days at base camp

Day 14 - 32: Climbing Mount Everest (8,849m)

After all the hard training at home, the pre-acclimatisation in the hypoxic tent and the acclimatisation climb of Lobuje, we are finally starting ‘the real deal’. We do one acclimatisation rotation through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 which sits in the Western Cwm. We spend one night at Camp 1 at 6,100m and three nights at Camp 2 at 6,400m. Well-acclimatised, we tackle the Lhotse Face and touch Camp 3 at 7,300m before we return to base camp. We have now finished our acclimatisation and are ready for the summit. We rest and recover at base camp, study the weather report and wait for the perfect weather window for our summit attempt.

Route:

From base camp we follow the maze leading through the Khumbu Icefall and continue on the broken glacier to Camp 1 at around 6,000m. On our way to Camp II which sits in the Valley of Silence, the Western Cwm, we will probably realise that we are finally on our way to the top of the world. Camp II sits on a side moraine at around 6,400m. From here, we continue reasonably flat to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. Once at the Bergschrund, the route becomes more challenging. We ascend the steep Face which - depending on the conditions - can either be covered in snow or in blue ice. There are some flat sections where we can have a rest before we reach Camp III at 7,300, which sits in the middle of the face. The camp is between imposing seracs and is well protected.

From Camp III, we continue up the Lhotse Face to the ‘Yellow Band’. We traverse the long Yellow Band to reach the Geneva Spur, which is named after the 1952 Swiss Everest expedition. This is a historic spot for the Swiss and it makes us realise how hard the 1952 Swiss expedition worked to pave the way for Hillary and Tenzing who reached the summit a year later! From here, it is not very far to Camp IV, which is nestled on the South Col at 7,900m.

We start our summit attempt in the middle of the night. At first, we climb up a couloir which – depending on the conditions – is either covered in snow or rock. At dawn, we reach the top of the rock where we change our oxygen bottles. From here, we can see the south summit and get an idea about the snow conditions higher up on the mountain. After having climbed over the south summit, we descend slightly to the famous Hillary Step, which is the last obstacle between us and the top of the world.

Day 33: Helicopter to Kathmandu

We arrive just in time for lunch in Kathmandu and check into our hotel. We enjoy the shower and the swimming pool and maybe even have a haircut at one of the traditional barbers. In the evening, we will get together for a celebration dinner!

Day 34: Departure Kathmandu

Day 35: Arrival in home country

The Profile Check is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skills and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning the procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to be able to move independently and confidently over mixed terrain (snow, ice, rock).

Camaraderie and tolerance are of great importance to us.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the expedition leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest.

The climbing Sherpa support the members during the entire expedition, however, we cannot guarantee that individual wishes will be addressed as the climbing Sherpa are responsible for the well-being of the entire group.

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary

Kobler & Partner does not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition by K&P

UIAGM mountain guide

2 climbing Sherpa per member, including insurance, food, salary and good equipment provided by Kobler & Partner

Unlimited oxygen support on the mountain

Emergency oxygen on the mountain

Pre-expedition briefing with the expedition leader

Hypoxic tent: delivery, set-up and support during the pre-acclimatisation phase

Helicopter flight Kathmandu - Namche Bazar and/or base camp - Kathmandu

Permit fees

Half board in Kathmandu

Full board ex Kathmandu

Drinks (excluding alcoholic drinks) during common meals

2 hotel nights in a double room in Kathmandu

1 comfortable tent (20 qm) per member at base camp

Bed with mattress at base camp

1 tent per two members at the high camps

Spacious and heated mess tent at base camp

Toilet and shower tent at base camp

Dining tent at ABC/C2

1 warm sleeping bag per member at base camp

Fixed ropes, main ropes, snow stakes, ice screws

High altitude stove (gas) and pots

Radios: 1 radio (9 volt) per member

Communication (radio) at base camp and at the high camps (12 volt)

Satellite telephone, call charges not included

Wi-Fi at BC

Weather forecast from Switzerland

Solar panels at base camp

Generator at base camp

Porter or Yaks to base camp and back

1 rescue sledge

Large medical kit at base camp

Medical kits at the high camps

Kitchen: cook and kitchen boys at base camp

Liaison Officer

Obligatory garbage fee

International return flight to Kathmandu (see “Getting there”)

Insurances

Visa fee for Nepal (about 140 CHF for a maximum stay of 90 days as of 09/21)

Individual drinks

Personal medication

Individual tips

Summit bonus for Sherpa (ca. 800 US$)

Additional charges that may arise due to possible changes to the itinerary

Bottled oxygen:

With more than 100 Everest expeditions, Kobler & Partner have gained vast experience with bottled oxygen. We offer our members state-of -the-art oxygen systems as we believe in MaxOx (maximum amount of oxygen). With us, you will get unlimited oxygen support.

Personal Climbing Sherpa

The expedition price includes two climbing Sherpa per member. All our Sherpa are competent guides with multiple Everest experience. They speak English fluently and know how to handle the oxygen systems.

General

In 2000, Kobler & Partner was one of the first western operators to organise expeditions on the north side in Tibet. As the COVID-19 pandemic has made organising an expedition in Tibet unpredictable, we started running expeditions on the south side in Nepal in 2021.

Communication

Wi-Fi, radio and satellite phone at BC

Power

At BC, we charge all electronic devices such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, e-readers and heated socks either with our solar system or, if needed, with a generator.

Local agency

Our team consists of Nepali Sherpa and a Nepali kitchen team. Over the years, K&P have put together an excellent Sherpa team. As it is important to us that our Sherpa can communicate with our members well, our Sherpa are obliged to take English lessons during the winter months paid for by K&P.

We begin to recruit, train and prepare our local team in autumn of the pre-expedition year.

Flexibility

If the weather does not allow us to attempt for the summit during our climbing period, the expedition can be extended if a good weather window is forecast. This decision lies entirely with the expedition leader.

16 Question and answers

Which organisation should I choose? A catalogue of questions:

1. Who are Kobler & Partner?

K&P is a Swiss expedition operator set up in 1990 by the UIAGM Mountain Guide Kari Kobler. K&P specialises in organising and managing expeditions to the Seven Summits and other peaks of the big mountain ranges in the world.

How many Everest expeditions have been organised by Kobler & Partner?

Kobler & Partner has run Everest expeditions every year since 2000.

3. How does climbing Everest from the north compare to the south?

This is a tough question to answer. Kobler & Partner prefers the North Col route as it is considered the safer route to the top of the world. Furthermore, the permits in Tibet are limited which means it does not get as busy as the south side in Nepal.

4. What agency does K&P work with in Tibet?

K&P works with the Nepali agency Himalaya Vision. Kari Kobler is the co-owner of Himalaya Vision. In Tibet, K&P co-operates with the Tibet Mountaineering Association (TMA).

5. Who is Kobler & Parter’s expedition leader, respectively mountain guide?

The K&P Mount Everest Express and Private Expeditions are led by UIAGM mountain guide Kari Kobler, who has been running expeditions to Everest since the year 2000. He has climbed Mount Everest six times.

6. How do we get to base camp? Via Kathmandu or Tibet? How many days does it take?

Members of our Express and Private Expeditions will fly directly to Xigatse and drive to base camp from there. Thanks to their pre-acclimatisation, they will arrive at base camp fit and healthy.

7. How large is the team?

We run the expedition with one member.

8. What does the acclimatisation rotation look like?

After arriving at base camp (5,200m), two rest days and an acclimatisation hike to 6,000m, we move to ABC (6,400m). From here, we climb to the North Col/Camp 1 (7,000m) where we spend one night.

9. How do we prepare our meals at the high camps?

The meals at the three high camps are prepared by your personal Sherpa. We have a chef at Camp I at 7,000 m.

10. What does the infrastructure at ABC look like?

ABC at 6,400 m is fully equipped. We have single tents for each member, a heated dome tent where we socialize and eat, a kitchen tent which is run by a chef and kitchen boys, a shower and a toilet tent, Wi-Fi and a satellite phone.

11 How many climbing Sherpas are on the expedition?

We hire three climbing Sherpas per member. All our climbing Sherpas speak English.

Have the Sherpa climbed Everest before?

All our Sherpa have climbed Everest before, some of them as often as 20 times.

13. Oxygen: How many oxygen bottles are available per member?

Our members are provided with unlimited oxygen from ABC.

14. Are there any medical kits above ABC?

Every high camp is stocked with a high-altitude medical kit while every mountain guide carries a medical kit that contains all relevant high-altitude drugs. Every member will get their own emergency medical kit to carry and stock spare oxygen bottles at every high camp for emergencies.

15. Is there a base camp manager, who can be reached round the clock during the summit attempt?

Yes. Our base camp manager is in constant radio contact with the mountain guides and Sherpa and will be reachable round the clock during out summit attempt. The BC manager provides the team with the latest weather report and, in case of emergencies, coordinates any rescue mission.

16. Which weather forecast does K&P use? How often will we get updates?

K&P uses Meteotest Bern in Switzerland who provides us with a very reliable daily weather forecast. Having done this for 21 years, Meteotest is the most experienced weather forecast provider for Mount Everest. A precise and reliable weather forecast is incredibly important for our summit success. During our summit attempt, the BC manager will be in contact with Meteotest around the clock.

Hotel and tent accommodation is indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

International flights are not included in the expedition price. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has built up a very good reputation that goes beyond Swiss borders and has attracted people from all corners of the world. For this reason, it’s best for everyone to arrange their own flights, however, please consult our office before you book. If you wish, we are happy to arrange the flights for you.

The visa is not included in the expedition price and will be obtained upon arrival. Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months beyond the dates of your trip.

Gear list Expedition Mount Everest - Express

2 duffle bags 110 L (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

Clothing

Jackets

Down jacket or down suit for expeditions

Primaloft jacket or light down jacket

Goretex Jacket

Softshell Jacket

Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

Pants

Trekking pants, light and long

Softshell pants for mountaineering

Goretex pants

Expedition down pants or down suit

Baselayers / T-shirts

T-shirts

Underwear

Long-sleeved thermal top

Thermal tights

Handwear

Insolated shell gloves

Expedition down mittens

Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

Footwear

Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)

Trekking boots

High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m

Trekking Socks

Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

Sleeping

-30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)

-40°C down sleeping bag for high camps

Insulated inflatable sleeping pad

Down booties (nice to have!)

Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

Headgear, face and eye protection

Sunglasses

Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)

Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)

Buff

Baseball cap

Headband

Beanie, warm

Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

Sunscreen, SPF 50

Lipscreen, SPF 50

Technical Equipment

Backpack approximately 40 l

Raincover for backpack

Climbing harness, light

Ice axe, light

Walking poles

Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)

2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)

3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)

Ascender (Jumar)

Belay device (figure 8 recommended)

Helmet

Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)

Cord, 5m, 5 mm

Compression bags for down equipment

Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)

Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)

Thermos

Pee bottle / Plastic bags

Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp

Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman

Lighter

Altimeter

Hand and toe warmers

Miscellaneous

Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)

Cash for personal use and tips

Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

Passport

Passport copy

2 Passport photographs

Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)

Writing utensils

Cellphone

Toiletry bag

Microfibre travel towel

Hand sanitizer (50 ml)

Ear plugs

Tissues, wet wipes

Swimwear

Photographic equipment

Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.