Pik Lenin

Pik Lenin was originally named Mount Kaufmann after Konstantin Kaufmann, the first Governor General of Turkestan. It belongs to the Trans-Altai mountain range and lies approximately 100km west of the Chinese border. Pik Lenin is one of the technically less difficult 7,000m-peaks of Central Asia and was first climbed by a Russian, German and Austrian expedition in 1928.

Central Asia is nestled between Europe and Asia and borders Afghanistan and Iran to the south. It is home to many mountains, deserts and oases. It has been shaped by all kinds of peoples and its history goes back thousands of years. Only a few hundred years ago, countless caravans were crossing the great Silk Road, thus contributing to a lively cultural exchange.

Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, Central Asia has gone through a massive transformation. It is divided into five independent nations speaking their own languages and paying with their own currencies. A trip to one of the Central Asian republics is no longer an adventure like it was a hundred years ago, however, it is still a very special experience. The Pamir in the southeast of Tajikistan is the highest mountain range in Central Asia. Gigantic snow-capped peaks now rise from the soil which was covered by a huge lake fifty million years ago. Enormous glaciers that are 1,000m thick in places fill the gaps between the peaks. While Kyrgyz people live in the high valleys of the eastern Pamir, the mountains of the western Pamir are mainly populated by Tajiks.

Day 1: Flight to Osh

Scheduled flight via Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, to Osh, the main town in the Asian part of the country.

Day 2: Drive from Osh - Pik Lenin Base Camp

After our arrival early in the morning, we drive across two mountain passes to the beautiful Alai plateau. Today, we see the Pamir range in its entirety for the first time. Our route continues over rough roads crossing hills, dales and rivers. You will be amazed to see how well the Russian truckdrivers master this ‘road’. After about three hours, we reach Achik Tash base camp at 3,700 m.

We settle in at the already established camp with its tents and yurts. Unusual, but very handy, is the privately managed facility with showers and toilets. Tent accommodation.

Day 3 - Day 4: Acclimatisation Tours

As acclimatisation is the key to our summit success, we will take enough time to get our bodies used to the higher altitude. Starting from Achik Tash base camp, we do two acclimatisation hikes up to the 4,400m-high mountain ridges that surround our base camp.

Day 5: Base Camp Achik Tash (3,600 m) - Camp I (ABC, 4,500 m)

We follow the old route and reach the original Pik Lenin base camp. After passing a small rock ledge, we reach the ‘Onion Meadow’. From here, we climb up a steep slope to reach a mountain pass offering stunning views of Pik Lenin. The path winds steeply down to a river, which can be challenging to cross depending on the water level. We continue across a large shoulder that takes us to ABC at 4,500 metres.

Day 6 - Day 19: Ascent of Pik Lenin

We have two weeks at our disposal to climb the probably most famous 7,000m-peak of Central Asia. During this time, Camp I will be our Advanced Base Camp (4,500m) which will already be set up with member tents and a kitchen. We will take a whole day to make ABC a comfortable place to stay. Moving up and down between camps is very important and beneficial to our acclimatisation.

Route:

Camp I (4,500m) - Camp II (5,500m)

We rope up and cross a glacier with several crevasses to reach Camp II at 5,400m. Past the glacial plateau our route continues to Camp II at 5,400m. This camp gets pretty busy, hence we ascend another 100 metres and establish our Camp II on a notch at 5,500m.

Camp II (5,500m) - Camp III (6,100m)

Camp III is at 6,100 metres and sits right underneath the summit of Pik Razdelnaja (6,200m). We first climb up a short slope and then cross wide snow slopes to reach the steep and demanding summit triangle of Razdelnaja. The ascent of Razdelnaja is the first highlight on our way to the summit of Pik Lenin.

Camp III (6,100 m) - Summit (7,134 m)

Summit day: at 5 o’clock in the morning, we embark on our summit bid. From Camp III, our route first leads up to a saddle for about 80 metres. A seemingly endless and very broad ridge which can have large sections of debris, depending on the snow conditions, leads us to the first huge summit plateau. From here, we can enjoy an unbelievably beautiful view across the surrounding hills. Far away on the horizon, we can see the Hindukush mountain range as well as Communism Peak (7,495m), the highest summit of the Pamir which was renamed to Pik Ismoli Somoni in 1999, and Pik Korshenevskaja. We continue along the famous “sickle” which, depending on the conditions, is the hardest part of the summit climb and should not be underestimated. Climbing across long and flat slopes with a few short steep inclines (30°), we reach a mountain top that looks like the summit. This, however, is the false summit and it takes another 30 minutes to reach the real summit. The view is impressive, and in good weather we can look all the way to Muztagh Ata (7,546m) in China.

Please be aware that the summit day is long and strenuous! If conditions allow, we will descend from the summit all the way to ABC. However, this should not spoil our joy of climbing one of the “Snow Leopards”. We will keep our motto and also leave “traces in the snow” here.

Day 20: Descent from ABC to Achik Tash Base Camp

During the descent to Achik Tash base camp, we can once again enjoy the amazing panoramic scenery that surrounds the mountain we have just climbed. This is also our last night in a tent, so make the most of it!

Day 21: Drive Base Camp - Osh

After 19 days in the wilderness, we leave the mountains and drive back to Osh where we might be a little bit overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of the city. We stay at the same hotel as before and enjoy the luxuries of civilisation.

Day 22: Osh (Spare Day)

Well rested, we visit the lively bazaar and the Rabat Abdul Khan Mosque. We round up our expedition with a delicious dinner.

Day 23: Departure to home country

The Profilecheck is an integratal part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skills and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning the procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to be able to move independently and confidently over mixed terrain (snow, ice, rock).

Camaraderie and tolerance are of great importance to us.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the expedition leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner does not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition

All transfers; bus and jeep rides

10% voucher for equipment purchase in Bächli Bergsport

Summit fees

Full board during the entire expedition

Beverages during communal dinners

Number of hotel nights in double rooms, look at the itinerary

Mess tent, toilet tent, shower tent

1 tent per member at base camp as well as as in C1 (ABC)

Light mats for base camp and C1 (ABC)

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws

High altitude stove (gas) and cookware

Communication (radio) at base camp

Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per 2 members

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

WIFI in C1, exklusive charges

Weather forecast from Meteotest Bern during the ascent of the Pik Lenin

Solar panels for lighting in the mess tent

Power at base camp for charging electronic devices (availability limited)

Pack animals (horses) to Camp I (ABC)

Local porters up to Camp III (6,100 m) for the tents, mats, stoves and gas

Medicinal oxygen for emergencies

1 rescue sledge

Extensive medical kit with pulse oximeter at base camp

Medical kit at the high camps

Medical kit for summit bid

1 local high porter per 6 members

Kitchen: cook and kitchen helpers

Local translator

Experienced, nationally certified mountain guide

International flights from/to Osh

Insurances

Personal porters to the high camps (can be organised on site)

Individual beverages (Soft drinks)

Alcoholic beverages

Personal medications

Surcharges that may arise due to changes being made to the travel programme

Individual tips

We happily organise a high-altitude porter for those members who would like to have some of their personal gear carried. What’s special about this trip is the support of the local porters who carry the group gear to Camp III at 6,100m. This additional support is one of the reasons why Kobler & Partner has such a high success rate on Pik Lenin.

In Osh we will stay in a good, centrally located hotel.

The nights in the Pik Lenin Base Camp (Achik Tash) we spend in private, fix installed Yurts.

In the ABC the Kobler & Partner group will have their own very good and roomy group tent.

International flights are NOT included in the flat fee. We happily make an offer.

Please note: For all European countries the visa requirement for stays longer than 60 days has been abolished in 2012.

Your passport has to be valid until 6 months after the return date of the travel.

Equipment List Pik Lenin

Clothing

Jackets

• Down Jacket for Expeditions
• Primaloft Jacket
• Gore-Tex Jacket
• Soft-Shell Jacket
• Fleece Sweater or Fleece Jacket

  Trousers

• Trekking Trousers, light and long
• Soft-Shell Alpine Pant, warm
• Gore-Tex Trousers
• Down Trousers

  Underwear / T-Shirts

• T-Shirts
• Underwear
• Thermal Shirt, long sleeve
• Thermal Long Johns

  Gloves

• Full-fingered Gloves
• Down Mittens for expeditions
• Liner Gloves, thin, silk or fleece

  Footwear

• Comfortable Shoes (Running Shoes for the Base Camp)
• Trekking Shoes
• Expedition Boots, 7.000er model
• Trekking Socks
• Mountain Socks, thick and warm

  Sleeping

• Down Sleeping Bag (Comfort zone -20°C)
• Isomat, high degree of insulation
• Down Camp Booty (nice to have!)
• Pillow case (filled with the down jacket to be used as pillow)

  Head-, Face- and Eye-Protection

• Sunglasses
• Glacier Sunglasses (with nose-protection if possible)
• Ski Goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from wind)
• Buff
• Baseball Cap
• Headband
• Beanie, warm
• Balaclava or Face Mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)
• Sun Cream, SPF 50
• Lip Protection, SPF 50

  Technical Equipment

• Backpack 60 l
• Rain cover for the backpack
• Climbing Harness, light
• Ice Axe, light
• Hiking Poles
• Crampons with anti ball plates (customised to fit expedition boots)
• 2 Carabiners (light, wire gate)
• 3 HMS Carabiners (light, screwgate)
• Ascender (Jumar)
• Descender (Figure of 8 recommended)
• Helmet
• Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)
• Cord, 5m, 5 mm
• Sling 120 cm / Dyneema
• 1 Ice Screw (19 cm)
• Compression Bags for down equipment
• Food Utensils, light, for the high camps (bowl including cutlery)
• Drinking Bottle with large opening (Nalgene)
• Thermos Bottle
• Pee Bottle / Plastic Bags
• Headlamp (including spare batteries) and including a small spare headlamp
• Pocket knife or Multitool/Leatherman
• Lighter
• Altimeter
• Thermal pads for hands and feet

  Miscellaneous

• Departure letter by K&P (contains the final information)
• 2 Duffel Bags 110 l (waterproof, available at K&P at a discount price for guests)
• Cash for personal use and tips
• Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)
• Passport
• Copy of the passport
• 2 Passport photographs
• Small travel pharmacy (personal medication / compeed)
• Writing utensils
• Cellphone
• Toilet case, washbag
• Towel (microfibre cloth)
• Hand Sanitizer (50 ml)
• Oropax
• Tissues, Wet Wipes
• Photographic equipment

Expedition pharmacies for the Base Camp and the high camps, radios, GPS, travelling literature and maps are carried by the mountain guide of K&P.