Expedition Manaslu Express

The name Manaslu comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa which roughly translates into „Mountain of the Spirit“. With its height of 8,163m, Manaslu is the eighth highest peak in the world. The prominent ridges running down from the main and east summits make it visible from very far away. In 1956, the Japanese were the first to successfully climb it via the northeast face, which has become the standard route for most expeditions. In 1974, Manaslu became the first 8,000m peak that was successfully climbed by a women’s only expedition, and in 1981 it was the first 8,000m peak that had ever been skied all the way from top to bottom.

Generally speaking, Manaslu along with Gasherbrum II, Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu, is one of the easier 8,000m peaks when it comes to technical difficulties. However, the ascent via the northern flank across the Naike Col and the northern saddle still requires a great deal of stamina.

K&P have organised expeditions to Manaslu since 1995. Additional to our classic Manaslu expedition which takes 42 days, we have now added Manaslu Express to our programme. This trip is ideal for those who would love to climb an 8,000m peak, but simply do not have six weeks at their disposal. Members need some expedition experience and have to pre-acclimatise in a hypoxic tent before the expedition. We fly to and from the foot of the mountain by helicopter and offer you maximum oxygen during the climb.

Day 1: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 2: Arrival in Kathmandu

Once in Kathmandu, we check into our hotel which is close to the tourist district of Thamel. We can spend the rest of the day with sightseeing in the centre of the Nepalese capital. Kathmandu is a lively and fascinating city with many facets: you can browse in colourful souvenir shops in Thamel, stroll through vast vegetable markets or visit religious sites such as Pashupatinath or the Buddhist Stupa of Bodnath - a place where you can easily spend several hours. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Helicopter flight to Samagoan (3,530m)

Early in the morning, a helicopter takes us up the beautiful Buri Gandaki Valley and drops us off in the village of Samagaon, which is spectacularly nestled between some Himalayan giants. We spend the afternoon in a comfortable lodge relaxing from the strenuous travel and getting prepared to trek to base camp the following day.

Day 4: Trekking Samagoan - Manaslu Base Camp (4,900m)

Our trek to base camp takes us past an impressive ice fall. At first, we hike through a beautiful birch forest before we climb up a long moraine that takes us directly to base camp. Base camp is located at the foot of the Manaslu Glacier at an altitude of almost 4,900m.

Day 5 - 6: We have two rest days at base camp. This will give us time to set up our comfortable camp and enjoy the luxury provided by the Sherpas, chefs and kitchen boys. If needed, we can assist our acclimatisation with our „ox-on-demand“ system during the night.

Day 7 to 25: Ascent of Manaslu (8,613m)

We have 27 days at our disposal, which is enough time to reach the top of Manaslu. Prior to our arrival, our Sherpas already set up our high camps and fixed the route with ropes for a comfortable ascent.

Route:

We follow the route of the Japanese expedition that first climbed Manaslu in 1956. At first, we cross a flat glacier that leads up to a rock wall which can easily be negotiated. Camp I is right above it at about 5,800m. The route up to Camp II is somewhat steeper, but still relatively „easy“. We then cross a serac zone that can be challenging depending on the conditions and should not be underestimated. Afterwards, we ascend two ramps (maximum gradient 40°) before we reach Camp II at 6,800m. Our route to Camp III at 7,450m first takes us across a flat plateau before we ascend a 300m-high wall, which is about 45° steep. Like many other sections on the mountain, our Sherpa team will fix some rope on this part. The last section leading to the summit is not very steep and non-technical. Only the last few metres are somewhat exposed. This effort will be compensated by the amazing views from the summit which stretch all the way from Dhaulagiri I and the Annapurna Massif to Mount Everest and Cho Oyu all the way to Shisha Pangma in Tibet. 

Day 26: Manaslu BC - Kathmandu

After our (hopefully successful) ascent of Manaslu, we return to Kathmandu. We bid goodbye to our Sherpa team and fly directly from base camp to Kathmandu where we will certainly enjoy the comforts of our hotel after having slept in a tent for three weeks.

Day 27: Kathmandu

Now we have time to buy souvenirs, visit barber shops or hairdressers, or simply visit one of the temples, where we have the opportunity to thank the gods for their mercy. During our farewell dinner, we can reminisce about the amazing expedition we have just experienced. We drive to the airport to start the definitive journey home. 

Day 28: Arrival in your home country

The Profile Check is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skills and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning the procedure of this expedition:

• This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.
• The members have to be able to move independently and confidently over mixed terrain (snow, ice, rock).
• Camaraderie and tolerance are of great importance to us.
• You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.
• The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the expedition leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 
• The climbing Sherpas support the members during the entire expedition, however, we cannot guarantee that individual wishes will be addressed as the climbing Sherpas are responsible for the well-being of the entire group. 
• Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary
• Kobler & Partner does not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition

International flights, including taxes

Check-in luggage (max. 30 kg, detailed information is included in the final documents)

Helicopter flight Kathmandu-Samagaon at the start of the expedition

Helicopter flight Samagaon-Kathmandu at the end of the expedition

Rent for hypoxic tent for pre-acclimatisation at home

Support during pre-acclimatisation

All transfers; bus and jeep rides

Pre-expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase

Summit fee

Full board during the climb at base camp and in Samagoan

Drinks during group meals for the duration of the trek and the climbing period (except for alcoholic drinks)

Number of hotel nights in double rooms (see itinerary)

Luggage transport to and from base camp (pack animals / porters/helicopter)

Entire base camp equipment (good mess tent, toilet tent, shower tent ...)

1 tent per member at base camp

1 tent per 2 members at the high camps

Foam mat at base camp

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, etc.

High altitude stove (gas) and pots

Communication (radio) at base camp (12 volts)

Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per 2 members

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

Internet and email at base camp (exclusive charges)

Weather forecast from Meteotest, Switzerland

Solar system for lighting in the mess tent

Electricity at base camp to charge electronic devices (limited availability)

Rescue sledge for emergencies

Medical oxygen for emergencies

Six bottles of oxygen on the mountain, including oxygen mask and regulator

On-demand-system for oxygen support during the nights at base camp

Large medical kit with pulse oximeter at base camp

Medical kits at the high camps

Medical kit for summit attempt

Kitchen: chef and kitchen boys

1 climbing Sherpa per member including insurance, provisions, fee and good equipment by Kobler & Partner

Obligatory liaison officer

Nationally certified, experienced mountain guide

Insurances

Visa fee for Nepal

Lunch and dinners in Kathmandu

Individual Beverages

Personal medication

Individual tips

In case no roommate can be found for a booked double room, K&P covers half the cost of the single room surcharge (check additional cost)

Additional charges that may arise due to possible changes to the itinerary.

Manaslu Express means:

Pre-acclimatisation in hypoxic tents at home

Maximum oxygen support on the mountain

1:1 Sherpa support during the entire expedition

Pre-acclimatisation in hypoxic tents

Every member of the Manaslu Express expedition will receive a hypoxic tent six weeks before the start of the trip. We will set it up and provide you with a training plan. The pre-acclimatisation equipment as well as the support during the pre-acclimatisation period are included in the expedition price.

How does pre-acclimatising in a hypoxic tent work?

Instead of acclimatising the traditional way by going on a long trek hovering around the same altitude as base camp, you comfortably sleep in a hypoxic tent at home. During the six weeks before the start of the Manaslu Express expedition, you will spend eight hours in your hypoxic tent with reduced oxygen supply. The conditions inside the tent prepare your body for the high altitude of Manaslu base camp which lies at 4,900m. This pre-acclimatisation enables you to take a helicopter to the foot of the mountain and ascend the mountain within a short period of time.

Maximum oxygen support: How many oxygen bottles do I have at my disposal?

Every member of the Manaslu Express expedition will receive six oxygen bottles, which is more than enough for a quick and safe ascent of the mountain. In case oxygen is already needed at base camp, we will support our members with our new Ox-on-Demand system.

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of supplemental oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time.

Which Sherpa team will join Manaslu Express?

Every single Manaslu Express member will be accompanied by a personal Sherpa during the entire expedition. Our Sherpas are very experienced and have been on several expeditions to Mount Everest and Manaslu. They are also experts when it comes to bottled oxygen. Your Sherpa will already be acclimatised when he welcomes you at base camp and will not leave your side during the whole trip.

Our local crew consists entirely of Nepali Sherpas. Over the years, Kobler & Partner have invested a lot of time and effort to build up an excellent Sherpa team. Some of our Sherpas have stood atop of Mount Everest 15 times and have scaled many other 8,000m peaks. K&P finances their English lessons in Kathmandu and provides more than 100 Sherpas with training sessions to acquire the right qualification as local mountain guide every year.

Preparations and recruitment of our local crew already start in the autumn of the year prior to the expedition.

Climate

In the Himalayas, there are two special types of climate that clash with each other:

The southern parts of the Himalaya experience a sub-tropic monsoon climate with most of the precipitation happening in summer. The northern parts experience an arid continental climate with warm summers and cold winters. Generally speaking, the two possible weather windows for expeditions in the Himalaya are in spring (pre-monsoon) and in autumn (post-monsoon). Both of them have advantages and disadvantages which are more or less important, depending on the chosen target of the expedition. 

The pre-monsoon period (spring) has warmer temperatures, but more precipitation. Regular rain is very likely. In the post-monsoon period (autumn), temperatures tend to be lower, however, weather windows may be longer.

In Kathmandu, we stay at the comfortable Shangri La Hotel (basic double room). In Samagoan, we stay in a simple lodge. Otherwise we sleep in tents at base camp and the high camps.

The expedition price includes international flights. Scheduled flights from Switzerland usually depart in the morning, however, the airlines’ flight times are subject to change. We are also happy to check other points of departure for you.

If your point of departure results in additional charge we will inform you in due time. For train times to Swiss airports, please check the timetable of the Swiss Railways: SBB Fahrplan.

The visas are organised upon arrival and are not included in the expedition price.

Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least 6 months after the intended return date.

b>Gearlist Expedition Manaslu

2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

Clothing

Jackets

Down jacket or down suit for expeditions

Primaloft jacket or light down jacket

Goretex Jacket

Softshell Jacket

Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

Pants

Trekking pants, light and long

Softshell pants for mountaineering

Goretex pants

Expedition down pants or down suit

Baselayers / T-shirts

T-shirts

Underwear

Long-sleeved thermal top

Thermal tights

Handwear

Insolated shell gloves

Expedition down mittens

Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

Footwear

Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)

Trekking boots

High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m

Trekking Socks

Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

Sleeping

-30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)

-40°C down sleeping bag for high camps

Insulated inflatable sleeping pad

Down booties (nice to have!)

Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

Headgear, face and eye protection

Sunglasses

Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)

Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)

Buff

Baseball cap

Headband

Beanie, warm

Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

Sunscreen, SPF 50

Lipscreen, SPF 50

Technical Equipment

Backpack approximately 60 l

Raincover for backpack

Climbing harness, light

Ice axe, light

Walking poles

Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)

2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)

3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)

Ascender (Jumar)

Belay device (figure 8 recommended)

Helmet

Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)

Cord, 5m, 5 mm

Sling 120 cm / Dyneema

1 Ice screw (19 cm)

Compression bags for down equipment

Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)

Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)

Thermos

Pee bottle / Plastic bags

Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp

Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman

Lighter

Altimeter

Hand and toe warmers

Miscellaneous

Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)

Cash for personal use and tips

Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

Passport

Passport copy

2 Passport photographs

Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)

Writing utensils

Cellphone

Toiletry bag

Microfibre travel towel

Hand sanitizer (50 ml)

Ear plugs

Tissues, wet wipes

Swimwear

Photographic equipment

Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.