Mt. Everest – Its time to go higher
Until recently this had been our main idea. The weather forecast predicted perfect summit-weather from 15.-17. May. Eva from Meteotest even once told me that there was no jet stream even close to us. However, in the Himalayas this can change within one day. Which is what happens during our ascent from the base camp to the ABC. The unforeseeable happens: the European, the Chinese and the Canadian weather forecasts predicted much more wind.
In the end, because of many reasons, we abandoned the summit attempt with a heavy heart. On one hand, humans do not have an unlimited amount of energy. On the other hand, the amount of oxygen, that is available in the camps, and the time at our disposal are not unlimited as well.
Therefore, it was very clear this morning that we, just like many other groups, descend to the base camp. We should, hopefully, have enough time.
What happened since the last report?
Alex Abramov, Sumdock, the boss of the Tibetans, and Kari Kobler have over and over again exerted pressure on the semi-governmental agencies. Something had to happen on the highest mountain. Finally, this year, after a change of the executive chair, many things happened. For example: access to electricity in the base camp was established and a large-scale garbage-removal project was launched. Technically, those projects are self-evident and the garbage was collected every year, BUT! For the local yak drivers it isn't really a problem. Every year they were payed by semi-governmental organisations for an amount of yaks that were supposed to bring the garbage from the advanced base camp (ABC) or intermediate camp. However, for the yak driver it was easier to just throw the garbage, at the end of the season, into the small ravines. These 80 yaks were made available in order to bring the garbage that was left behind back to the valley. Then the garbage is sorted and brought to Lhasa.
This whole story was responsible for quite a large furore in Tibet.
Other projects on the Mt. Everest on the Tibetan side
We will now use the momentum. After the expedition, Sumdock and Kari Kobler are going to discuss many pending problems.
Thanks to my age (person commanding respect) and the many expeditions that K&P has organised in Tibet, Sumdock and Kari Kobler, after the Everest Expedition, are going to start a conversation with Nima. Nima is the vice chairman of the Sports-Ministry in Tibet and he has successfully ascended the Mt. Everest several times. He also was the leader of the expedition during the television recordings for the Olympic games. The ones who know the Chinese know that as soon as a topic is important and becomes something they see as an honour to do something, everything is possible.
On the mountain
On 10. and 11. May the fixed ropes from the last camp until shortly before the summit were successfully installed. This is a very important part for the successful ascent of the summit. Sadly, after the last few weather forecasts, it does not look so good for the next few days. Most of the expeditions, this also includes the K&P expedition, descended to the base camp. In the ABC only Angus from Australi, Mark from England as well as Kari are left.
In the ABC I am on the mountain and can assess the weather conditions better than if I were in the base camp. Everything takes a bit more energy, like writing reports, but I hope that it will become better now, after having the many meetings and interviews, in the base camp, behind me.