- Lenin Peak is one of the most well known 7,000 m mountains.
- This climb is suitable for mountaineers wanting to gain high-altitude experience.
- There are other possible mountains to climb in the area., e.g. Peak Razdelnaja.
- The Pamir Mountains, where Lenin Peak is located, are also known as the «Switzerland of Central Asia».
- Up to now, Kobler & Partner have helped well over 100 people to climb Peak Lenin.
Lenin Peak was originally named "Mount Kaufmann" after the first Governor-General of Turkestan. It belongs to the Trans-Altai Range of mountains in Central Asia and is located 100 km away from the Chinese border. The peak was first climbed in 1928 by a group from Russia, Austria and Germany. Lenin Peak is considered one of the technically easier of the 7,000 m high mountains.
Put briefly, Central Asia lies in-between Europe and Asia and it borders Afghanistan and Iran to the south. It's an area of mountains, deserts and oases. It is a place influenced by many different peoples and cultures, and the stage of several millennia of history. Numerous caravans traveled along the the big Silk Road, which lead to a healthy mixture of different cultures.
Today, Central Asia is a world in the phase of breaking-up. It is divided into five independent republic states, which talk their own languages and use their own currency. A journey into one of these republic states may not be as adventurous as it was a thousand years ago, but it's still a very special kind of experience. The Pamir in the southeast of Tajikistan is the biggest mountain range in Central Asia. On the roof of the world, where 50 million years ago was a humongous lake, there are now huge summits, which are always covered in snow and ice. In-between those summits lay broad glaciers with layers of ice, which at their thickest, can be up to 1,000 m thick. In the 4,000 m high valleys in the eastern part of the Pamir there live Kyrgyz, whose cattle finds enough food on the mountainsides even during the winter. However, the Pamir isn't exclusively inhabited by Kyrgyz the mountains in the western part of the Pamir range are primarily inhabited by Tajiks.
Central Asia lies between Europe and Asia and borders on Afghanistan and Iran in the south. It is a region of mountains, deserts and oases with thousands of years of colourful history. Hundreds of years ago,innumerable numbers of caravans passed through travelling along the Silk Road, enhancing the lively culture. Today Central Asia is changing. It is divided into 5 separate republics, each with its own currency and language. Although a trip here today is not the adventure it was a hundred years ago, it is still a special experience. The Pamir, the highest mountain range in Central Asia, is located in southeast of Tajikistan; fifty million years ago, this region was nothing but an enormous lake. Nowadays, the mountains are permanently topped with ice (e.g. Ismoil Somoni Peak, 7495m, Lenin Peak, 7134m) and glaciers have an ice depth of up to 1000m. Kyrgyz people live in the high valleys of the east Pamir; even in winter they find enough food for grazing their animals on the mountain slopes. In the west Pamir we find Tajiks living.
Day 1: Flight Zürich–Bishkek
Day 2: Arrival in Bishkek and connecting flight to Osh (2,500 m)
Transfer to hotel and visit the well known bazaar. The people here in South Kyrgyzstan mostly originate from Mongolia.
Day 3: Travel from Osh to Lenin Peak Base Camp.
After driving for half a day over 2 passes, we will arrive at the interesting Alai plateau. Here we get our first glimpse of the majestic Pamir Mountains. After another 3 hours driving over difficult terrain and crossing many rivers, we reach Achik Tash Base Camp at 3700m. There are permanently erected tents and yurts for our use and even privately run showers and toilets.
Day 4–5: Acclimatisation tour (4,200 m)
Each person acclimatizes differently and therefore it is very important to have enough time for this process. Near to Base Camp there are many enjoyable excursions which help in our acclimatization.
Day 6: Achik Tash (3,600 m)–Camp I (ABC, 4,500 m)
We will follow the old tracks as far as to the former Lenin Peak Base Camp. After a small rock step we reach fields where wild onions grow. Continuing up a steep slope we reach a pass and have a spectacular view of Lenin Peak. Steep slopes follow until we reach a river which we must cross – difficulty depending on height of the water! After a ridge we reach Base Camp.
Day 7: Rest Day in Base Camp
Preparations for our ascent and acclimatization.
Day 8–19: Ascent of Lenin Peak (7,134 m)
We have 2 weeks in which to climb the most well known 7,000 m peak in Central Asia. The climbing up and down from Camp I to Camp III is necessary for acclimatization.
Camp I will be our Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 4,500 m. This camp is well equipped with tents and a kitchen.
Camp I (4,500 m)– Camp II (5,500 m)
We cross glaciated slopes to reach Camp II. Across the crevassed zone we will need to rope up. As Camp II is usually fully occupied, we will climb 100 m higher to set up our tents.
Camp II (5,500 m)– Camp III (6,100 m)
Camp III is situated at 6,100 m just below the summit of Peak Razdelnaja (6,200 m).
The ascent of Razdelnaja is one of the highlights on our way to the summit.
Camp III (6,100 m)–Summit (7,134 m)
We start our summit ascent at 5 am.
We reach the enormous summit plateau after a long wide ridge, depending on snow conditions sometimes interspersed with scree. The view is unbelievable. On the horizon is the Hindu Kush and Peak Communism (Ismoil Somoni Peak, 7,495 m) the highest mountain in the Pamir. In the next part of the climb we encounter the crux, not to be underestimated. This is followed by long easier slopes until a short steep climb (30°) brings us to what we imagine as the summit. However, this is not the case: it takes another 30 minutes to reach the actual summit of Lenin Peak. The view is incredible; we can even see Muztagh Ata (7,546 m) in China.
NB: This last day is long and strenuous. The descent from the summit to Base Camp will take a day if our fitness and stamina allows it. Even if it takes 2 days our motto is «we leave nothing bu our tracks in the snow».
Day 20: Descent from Camp I to Base Camp
It is a pleasure to descend past the wild onion fields to our Base Camp and enjoy the views and colours surrounding us.
Day 21: Base Camp–Osh
The Russian lorry drives over impossible terrain and through rivers with no problem. What an experience! Hotel accommodation in Osh.
Day 22: Flight Osh–Bishkek
Last minute shopping in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
Day 23: Return Flight to Zürich
After a night flight we arrive in Zürich.
Lenin Peak is an ideal 7,000 m mountain suitable for a first time expedition. However the summit day is not to be underestimated.
We can organise the transport of materials to the higher camps if anyone has problems.
What is so special about this expedition is that we are strongly supported by the local team, which carries the entire group material up to Camp II (6,000 m) for us. This is one of the reasons, why Kobler & Partner have such a high success rate on this peak.
Please note: The summit day (Camp II to peak) is long and strenuous - please see that you take extra care of your strength and examine yourself closely at all times. For safety reasons, it might be necessary to head back to the lower camps before reaching the summit if you feel too exhausted to continue.
- All flights departing from/ arriving in Switzerland ( cf. «Flight»)
- Domestic flight Bishkek–Osh–Bishkek
- Airport tax (as per Sept. 30th 2010)
- Baggage (for allowance see equipment list)
- Organisation of the entire expedition
- Information meeting in Berne at Bächli Bergsport
- Tips from Kobler & Partner (for individual tips see special leaflet)
- Visa for Kyrgyzstan (see «Travel Documents»)
- Summit fees
- Full-board during entire expedition (for individual snacks see www.kobler-partner.ch/tipps)
- All beverages during shared meals
- Hotel accommodation in double rooms (see travel programme)
- Good group tent, toilet tent, shower tent
- 1 tent per 2 participants at Base Camp, ABC and high camps
- Light mats for the high camps (for further information: www.kobler-partner.ch/tipps)
- Fixed ropes, mountain ropes, ice screws etc.
- High mountain stoves (gas) and cutlery
- Communication (radio) in Base Camp
- 1 walkie-talkie per 2 participants (9 volt)
- Satellite phone, tax excluded
- E-mail, tax excluded
- Weather forecast from Meteotest Berne during the entire expedition
- Solar equipment with light in the group tent
- Electricity in base camp for loading electronic gadgets (limited use)
- Expedition doctor, if possible
- Pack animals (horses) for transport as far as Camp I (ABC)
- Porters to Camp III (6,100 m) for tents, mats, stoves and gas
- Oxygen for emergencies
- rescue sled
- Extensive pharmacy with a pulse oximeter at BC
- Pharmacies in the high camps
- Kitchen: cook and assistants
- Local translator
- Certified mountain guide
- Cancellation insurance
- Personal porter for the high camps (can be organised on site)
- Individual beverages
- Personal medication (cf. leaflet)
- Extra costs arising due to changes in the programme