Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA, Tiles: Mapbox
A Medallion in the Land of the Sherpa
  • Ama Dablam: a beauty in sight and a delight to climb.
  • We'll have much time at disposal for climbing the "Toblerone pyramid" in the Everest area.
  • Next to the Matterhorn and the Alpamayo, Ama Dablam is without doubt one of the most stunning mountains in the world.
  • Although "just" a 6,000 m peak, Ama Dablam is one of the most popular summits worldwide.
  • The mystical landscape surrounding the base camp and the spectacular shape of the mountain inspires all mountaineers.
  • Quality bonus: 1 local high-altitude porter between 5 participants, up-to-date weather forecast.

In the Khumbu region, in the heart of the country of Sherpas, stands Ama Dablam (6,856 m), one of the most beautiful mountains on earth. The highest peaks on earth in the backdrop, Ama Dablam rises free-standing from other mountains, like the Matterhorn.

The mountain of gods, Ama Dablam (6,856 m), is for good reasons considered to be the most beautiful mountain on earth. In the language of the Sherpas "Ama" means mother and "Dablam" describes a medallion worn around the neck, that's why the name Ama Dablam is often translated as "mother treasure box". One of the most influential Nepalese Buddhist monasteries has been located in Tengpoche (3,870 m) for a long time. Everybody who has seen the phenomenal view on the Ama Dablam from Tengpoche, understands the holy dignity of this place. Sadly the monastery burnt down completely in 1989. Even though it has been rebuilt, it sadly lost a lot of its importance and influence, because almost all of the ancient scriptures were lost in the fire.

The Ama Dablam, originally thought to be insurmountable, has been successfully ascended for the first time in 1961 by an expedition which was lead by Sir Edmund Hillary, the man who also was the first to ascend the Mt. Everest. Our route will follow the same route Sir Edmund Hillary took on the first ascent over the south ridge. The mountain may not count to the highest of the Himalayas, but the interesting route still poses a challenge even to experienced mountaineers.

Travel Programme

Day 1: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 2: Arrival in Kathmandu
After our arrival in Kathmandu and a leisurely first meeting, we will have the opportunity to explore the centre of Kathmandu (the so-called “Thamel”). Overnight stay at a hotel.

Day 3: Flight Kathmadu–Lukla–Ghat
A beautiful flight over the Solukhumbu will take us to Lukla (2,834 m). Good visibility is needed for the flight, but since the weather is fairly stable in autumn, chances for delay are fairly small. We'll descend to Ghat (2,500 m) on foot. Overnight stay in tents or in a lodge.

Day 4–7: Ghat–Base Camp
After leaving Ghat we will follow the gently ascending path along the Dudh Koshi (milk river) in the lower Khumbu valley. After a steep climb we will arrive in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), the administrative centre for the Khumbu region. Depending on our capabilities, we may take a rest day here. Leaving the lively Namche, we'll hike to Tengboche and then via Deboche to the Ama Dablam lodge. We'll follow the hiking trail to Pangboche, the last village before our base camp. After a steep ascent we'll reach the base camp, which lies at 4,900 m by a small lake. Overnight stay in tents or at a lodge.

Day 8–20: Ascent of Ama Dablam
After one or two days, which we need for our acclimatization, we will spent the following two weeks climbing Ama Dablam. We will establish two high camps. Difficult passages will be secured with fixed ropes.

Route: We will hike around the foot of the South ridge, reaching camp I over easy terrain. After a difficult slope, we'll reach a steep ridge. We'll follow it and thus get to our first crux, a steep slab. Along the ridge we'll get to the next difficult passage, which leads first through a crack and then ends in another difficult slab. Following the left side of the ridge, we'll master a snow-covered slope which ends in a snowy ridge. The ridge leads us to camp II, which is situated on a large ice balcony. The upcoming steep ice wall may also have to be secured with fixed ropes, depending on the conditions on site. A 500 m high and 50 degree steep slope will be our last hurdle before we can stand on the summit of this beautiful mountain. All difficult sections will be secured with fixed ropes, so that we can reach the peak of Ama Dablam safely.

Day 21–22: Base Camp–Lukla
We'll hike back via Pangpoche and Namche Bazaar to Lukla. Overnight stay in tents or at a lodge.

Day 23: Flight: Lukla–Kathmandu
Starting or landing in Lukla is an experience of its own! Overnight stay at a hotel.

Day 24: Kathmandu
During our last day in Kathmandu we'll have time to explore the markets, admire the temples of Bakhtapur and Swayambunath, or even visit the barber's or hairdresser's

Day 25: Flight back from Kathmandu

A spectacular mountain with an equally amazing route – the "Toblerone of the Himalayas".

Included services
  • International flights, incl. airport taxes
  • Domestic flight Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu (good visibility needed)
  • Baggage (for allowance see K&P handbook)
  • All transfers, trips by bus and jeep
  • Organisation of the entire expedition
  • Information meeting at Bächli Bergsport, Bern
  • Entrance fees for the Sagarmatha National Park
  • Tips on behalf of Kobler & Partner (for individual tips see K&P handbook)
  • Summit fees
  • Full-board during entire expedition (for individual snacks see K&P handbook)
  • Hotel accommodation in double rooms (see travel program); where reasonable in huts and lodges
  • 1 tent per participant at base camp
  • 1 tent per 2 participants at the mountain
  • Good group tent, toilet tent, shower tent
  • Light mats for the high camps (for further information see K&P handbook)
  • Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, ice screws etc.
  • High mountain stoves (gas) and cooking utensils
  • Walkie talkies (9 volt), 1 per 2 participants
  • Communication (radio) in base camp (12 volt)
  • Satellite phone, call charges excluded
  • Sending and receiving e-mails, 10 text e-mails included
  • Weather forecast from Meteotest Bern
  • Solar equipment with light in the group tent
  • Electricity in the base camp to charge electrical appliances (limited use!)
  • Yaks to/from base camp
  • 1 rescue sled
  • Oxygen for emergency
  • Extensive pharmacy at base camp including Pulse Oximeter
  • Pharmacies in the high camps
  • Postcards
  • Kitchen: 1 cook, kitchen assistants in base camp
  • 1 local high porter per 4 participants, well-equipped by Kobler & Partner
  • Liaison officer
  • Local tourist guide
  • Certified mountain guide
  • Last but not least; a hot water bottle for cold nights…
Excluded services
  • Insurance (see "insurance")
  • Personal high porter to the high camps (prior reservation recommended)
  • All beverages
  • Visa for Nepal (see "travel documents")
  • Personal medication (see K&P handbook)
  • Additional costs arising due to changes in the program
Support

Support through high porters

Creativity and new ideas are also in demand for successful ascents of high mountains. K&P have devised a plan to offer guests a service which other agencies do not yet provide.
For many years, K&P have been offering more than the “included services” promise, as our regular guests (80%) know.

Support for carrying luggage
It's long standing practise that K&P guests are accompanied by high porters on the mountains. K&P want to raise the success at high mountains. Our ideas have proved of such success on Everest expeditions, where summit success could be increased manifold, that we would like to extend these services.
As an additional option, we organise high porters which help with the carrying of luggage. This is only for customers who want and need it – there are no additional costs for other customers.

“Two in one”
Firstly, hiring high porters means that more high porters receive work.
Furthermore, it results in the groups being less spread out during the ascent, which means that they can reach the camps as well as the summit together. Also, the safety is increased and if there is need for a rescue operation, more manpower is at hand.

It is possible to give the high porters some of your personal luggage. With personal luggage only the luggage which is mentioned on the equipment list in the handbook is meant.
Additional costs for the carrying of personal luggage will differ from case to case. High porters in Tibet cost about three times as much as those in Nepal or Pakistan. We will communicate the additional costs per kilo for carrying luggage into the different high camps prior to the expedition.

Shared high porters
Another popular option emerged over the course of the last years: “half” a high porter. For instance, a high porter could work for K&P when not needed by the customer, and thus help the entire group. As mentioned above, costs can differ hugely.