Expedition Nanga Parbat

Located in north-eastern Pakistan, Nanga Parbat mainly consists of gneiss and granite. The “Naked Mountain” towers almost 7,000 metres above the Indus River, which circumnavigates the whole massif from east to west. To the south, Nanga Parbat has the Rupal Face which is often referred to as the highest mountain wall in the world. It rises 4,600m above its base. A 25-km-long ridge runs along the mountain massif which includes the 8,125-metre main summit, the 8,070-metre north shoulder and another dozen secondary summits in the six and seven-thousand-metre range.

The first attempt to scale Nanga Parbat was undertaken by A.F. Mummery in 1895. Back then, Mummery was considered to be the best British mountaineer of his time, however, he and his two porters disappeared at 6,400m on the Diamir Face. Legendary Austrian climber Hermann Buhl was the first person to reach the summiot on July 3, 1953. He managed the last 1,300m alone and without supplemental oxygen, which is one of the most outstanding achievements in mountaineering history.

The second ascent of Nanga Parbat was via the Diamir Face, in 1962, by Germans Toni Kinshofer, Siegfried Löw, and A. Mannhardt. The route which is now considered the ‘normal’ route is by no means easy. At the lower part of the mountain alone are several tough passages like the “Sigi Löw Ice Couloir” and the “Kinshofer Wall”.

Day 1: Flight to Islamabad

Day 2: Islamabad

We usually arrive in Islamabad in the early morning hours. After we have checked into our hotel we do a bit of sightseeing in Rawalpindi or Islamabad. We also visit the Ministry of Tourism to do all the paper work required for our expedition. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Islamabad - Chilas

We have a long, but very beautiful day ahead of us with the 12 hour-drive to Chilas. At first, the road takes us past corn fields before it takes us through a terraced landscape with rice fields and tea plantations. After Thakot, the entrance to the Indus-Valley, we drive on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) and follow the Indus river to Besham and then on to Chilas where we spend the night in a simple but cute hotel.

Day 4 - Day 5: Chilas - Bunar - Base Camp (4,250m)

A short drive takes us to Bunar, a small village on the other side of the Indus. This is where the expedition begins and where we meet our porters. After we have distributed the luggage, we get into jeeps that take us up the Bunar Valley. From here, we trek for one and a half days through a wild, romantic and very authentic landscape. During this trek, we pass the four mountain villages of Diamirai, Ser, Kachal and Jerdin until we reach our base camp at 4,250m. It sits on a majestic meadow at the edge of the Diamir Glacier.

Day 6 - Day 40: Nanga Parbat (8,125m)

We have 35 days to climb Nanga Parbat. It is important to take enough time to ascend the 8,125m-high mountain as we need to give our bodies the best-possible opportunity to acclimatise well. After our arrival we spend some time setting up our base camp as it will be our temporary home for the next month.

With the help of our porters, we set up four high camps. Camp I is at approximately 4,900m; Camp II at about 6,000m and Camp III at about 6,750m. Our last camp, Camp IV, is at approximately 7,300m. From here, we begin our summit attempt.

At first, we ascend the side moraine of the Diamir Glacier to approximately 4,600m. From here, we first cross a flat glacier after which we reach the foot of a rock pillar, which is the site for our Camp I. The ascent continues underneath individual rock pillars. We continue steadily upwards until we reach the “Sigi Löw Couloir” which we follow for about three quarters of its length before we traverse the 120m-long and technically challenging “Kinshofer Wall”. From here, we reach a balcony at approximately 6,000m, where we establish Camp II. For Camp III, we first climb on mixed terrain before we cross a flat snow ridge at the start of the approximately 40-degree-steep snow slope. At the end of this slope at about 6,750m, we establish Camp III underneath a few protecting rocks. Just as we did on other challenging sections, we fix some rope on the 45-degree traverse that takes us from Camp III all the way across to the Bazhin Gap. The Bazhin Our last camp and the starting point for our summit attempt is at about 7,300m. If everything goes smoothly, we should reach the top of the ninth highest mountain in the world in eight to 12 hours. For the last section to the summit, we do not follow the Kinshofer route but stay on the west side and climb to the highest point via the summit trapezoid.

Day 41: Base Camp - Chilas

After about a month on the mountain, we leave base camp which by now should have become close to our hearts. In one day, we descend from base camp all the way to Bunar from where we drive to Chilas, where we will most certainly enjoy the amenities of civilisation.

Day 42: Chilas - Islamabad

We drive back to Islamabad via the Karakoram Highway. Hotel accommodation.

Day 43: Islamabad

Today we still have a bit of time to visit the bazaars and do some last-minute shopping. However, we must keep enough time to visit the Ministry of Tourism for the obligatory debriefing. Hotel accommodation.

Day 44: Flight from Islamabad

Day 45: Arrival in your home country

The Profilecheck is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skill and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to be able to move securely and independently through very rough terrain (snow, ice, rock, etc.). You have to independently rope up with a group. Active participation on the mountain, camaraderie and tolerance are an essential part of this expedition and we count on you to be able to provide this.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility. 

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner do not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition

All transfers; bus and jeep rides

Pre-expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase

Summit fees

Visa support

Full-board during the entire trip

Drinks during group meals, except for alcoholic drinks

Number of hotel nights in double rooms (look at itinerary)

Luggage transport to base camp and back (pack animals / porters)

Entire base camp equipment (good mess tent, toilet tent, shower tent...)

1 tent per member at base camp

1 tent per 2 members during the approach and at high camps

Foam sleeping mat at base camp

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, etc.

High altitude stove (gas) and cookware

Communication (radio) at base camp (12 volts)

Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per 2 members

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

Internet and email access at base camp (exclusive charges)

Weather forecast by Meteotest Bern

Solar panels with lighting for mess tent

Power at base camp for charging electronic devices (only limited availability!)

Rescue sledge for emergencies

Medicinal oxygen for emergencies

Large medical kit with pulse oximeter at base camp

Medical kits for the high camps

Medical kit for summit attempt

Kitchen: cook and kitchen helpers

1 porter per 2 members including insurance, food, salary and good equipment by Kobler & Partner

Costs for obligatory liaison officer

Nationally certified, experienced mountain guide

International flights to/from Islamabad

Insurances

Personal porter for high camps (if required, please book in advance)

Alcoholic drinks

Individual beverages

Visa fee for Pakistan

Personal medication

Additional costs that may arise due to changes being made to the planned travel itinerary

Bottled oxygen

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Mt. Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of bottled oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time. 

For this reason, we recommend the use of bottled oxygen for climbing an 8,000m peak. Using bottled oxygen is optional on our expeditions and the amount needed depends on every individual. This is why bottled oxygen is not included in the overall expedition price.

Checked and filled oxygen bottles have to be purchased a long time before the start of an expedition. Hence, the rental of an oxygen set has to be paid prior to the expedition. The rental price for one set includes one oxygen bottle, mask, regulator as well as transport to the high camps and back. 

In case of damage or loss of the equipment, the cost for repairs or replacement has to be covered by the person who rented the equipment. If the rented equipment is not used, the rental costs cannot be refunded.

High-altitude porters for the team

1 high-altitude porter per 2 members

Personal high-altitude porter

On this expedition, you have the option to hire a personal porter. This individual support will make your experience much more comfortable. A personal porter carries part of your personal gear (around 10 kg) to the high camps and supports you on your climb. Using a personal porter adds manpower to our trip and increases the safety of the entire expedition. 

Over the last few years, we have also used Nepali Climbing Sherpas on our expeditions outside Nepal. The fee for a Nepali Climbing Sherpa is a bit higher than for Pakistanis, however, the advantages outweigh the difference in price by far. As long as the Pakistani government permits Nepali Sherpas to work on our expeditions, we will offer this extra service as it is certainly worthwhile.

General

On this expedition, we have enough time to sit out bad weather conditions at base camp and still have enough time to start a second summit attempt.

Local agency

Kobler & Partner have relied on its renowned Pakistani partner agency for many years. Our team consists of experienced local high altitude porters and an extremely committed Pakistan kitchen team. Over the years, we have built up an excellent team of high altitude porters. The preparations and recruitment of the local team for our expeditions usually start in the autumn of the previous year.

Climate

The best time to climb an 8,000m peak in the Karakoram is between the beginning of June and mid-August. The weather is more stable in late summer as this is the tail-end of the monsoon. However, a certain amount of luck is always needed when climbing in the Karakoram.

Internet, Wifi, satellite phone, email at base camp

There is no mobile network at Nanga Parbat base camp. We communicate with our office in Bern, the meteorological office and our Pakistani agency in Skardu via satellite phone. Members can use the satellite phone for private phone calls or text messages.

The charges are as follows:

Telephone: 3 USD per minute for outgoing as well as incoming calls.

3 USD per text message.

K&P will provide a Thuraya IP, a satellite terminal as well as a laptop with a specific expedition email address. Sending and receiving emails without pictures or any other attachments via the expedition email address is included in the expedition price. If required, Wi-Fi is also available at an additional fee of USD 500 for the duration of the expedition. The use is limited as the total data volume for the entire expedition (30 days from arrivatl at base camp) only amounts to 30GB.

Electronic gadgets such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, kindles and heated socks can be charged via our solar system. However, as this system relies on good weather, the availability may be limited. We kindly ask you to leave your laptop at home as it uses a lot of power. We would also ask you to only use electronic devices with USB connection.

Hotel and tent accommodation are indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays that are not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

International flights are not included in the expedition price. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has built up a very good reputation that goes beyond Swiss borders and has attracted people from all corners of the world. For this reason, it’s best for everyone to arrange their own flights. On demand, however, we can look after your travel arrangements. For this reason, please check your flight times with our head office in Bern before you book your tickets.

The visa for participants who live in Switzerland is organised by Kobler & Partner and it is billed separately. All other guests have to organise their visas themselves. You will receive all necessary documents in due time. Your passport has to be valid for at least 6 months after the return date of this travel offer.

Gearlist Expedition Nanga Parbat

• 2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

  Clothing

  Jackets

  Down jacket or down suit for expeditions

  Primaloft jacket or light down jacket

  Goretex Jacket

  Softshell Jacket

  Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

  Pants

  Trekking pants, light and long

  Softshell pants for mountaineering

  Goretex pants

  Expedition down pants or down suit

  Baselayers / T-shirts

  T-shirts

  Underwear

  Long-sleeved thermal top

  Thermal tights

  Handwear

  Insolated shell gloves

  Expedition down mittens

  Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

  Footwear

  Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)

  Trekking boots

  High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m

  Trekking Socks

  Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

  Sleeping

  -30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)

  -40°C down sleeping bag for high camps

  Insulated inflatable sleeping pad

  Down booties (nice to have!)

  Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

  Headgear, face and eye protection

  Sunglasses

  Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)

  Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)

  Buff

  Baseball cap

  Headband

  Beanie, warm

  Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

  Sunscreen, SPF 50

  Lipscreen, SPF 50

  Technical Equipment

  Backpack approximately 60 l

  Raincover for backpack

  Climbing harness, light

  Ice axe, light

  Walking poles

  Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)

  2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)

  3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)

  Ascender (Jumar)

  Belay device (figure 8 recommended)

  Helmet

  Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)

  Cord, 5m, 5 mm

  Sling 120 cm / Dyneema

  1 Ice screw (19 cm)

  Compression bags for down equipment

  Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)

  Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)

  Thermos

  Pee bottle / Plastic bags

  Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp

  Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman

  Lighter

  Altimeter

  Hand and toe warmers

  Miscellaneous

  Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)

  Cash for personal use and tips

  Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

  Passport

  Passport copy

  2 Passport photographs

  Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)

  Writing utensils

  Cellphone

  Toiletry bag

  Microfibre travel towel

  Hand sanitizer (50 ml)

  Ear plugs

  Tissues, wet wipes

  Swimwear

  Photographic equipment

  Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.