Mount Everest - Southside

Since Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary became the first people to set foot on top of the world on 29 May 1953, mountaineers from all over the world have been striving to climb Mount Everest. Climbing Chomulungma (Tibetan for ‘Mother Goddess of the Earth’) from its south side in Nepal is surely the most famous route on an 8,000m peak. Some of the most exciting chapters of Himalayan history have certainly been written on these slopes. There are now 20 routes to reach the top of Mount Everest, which is known as Sagarmatha meaning “The Head of the Earth touching Heaven” in Nepal.

Kobler & Partner has run Everest expedition on both the north side in Tibet and the south side in Nepal since 2000. Over the years, K&P has developed an excellent system whereby our members who strive to climb an 8,000m peak in the Himalaya or the Karakorum get maximum safety, the greatest comfort and the best chances to reach the summit.

All our local Everest guides are certified UIAGM mountain guides with 8,000m experience. All Sherpa have reached the top of Mount Everest and other 8,000m peaks several times and have a lot of expertise in handling bottled oxygen. Our Sherpa speak English fluently and have worked for us for many years.

On summit day, K&P provides all Everest aspirants with the maximum amount of oxygen. Our first acclimatisation rotation takes us to the top of Lobuje East, a 6,000m peak near Mount Everest. After this side trip, our members will be well acclimatised when they arrive at Everest base camp (5,200m). In cooperation with Dr. Urs Hefti of the Swiss Sports Clinic in Bern, we offer all members the opportunity to pre-acclimatise at home with a hypoxic tent. The experts of the Swiss Sports Clinic will monitor your progress.

Day 1: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 2: Arrival in Kathmandu

Once we have arrived and had our first relaxed group meeting in the beautiful gardens of the Shangri La hotel, we will explore the centre of Kathmandu. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Kathmandu–Lukla (2,834m)–Phakding (2,500m)

Weather-permitting (the flight only operates in good visibility) we enjoy the beautiful flight across the Solukhumbu and touch down at 2,834m in Lukla. From here we walk down to Phakding (2,500m) in about three hours.

Day 4: Phakding (2,700m)–Namche Bazar (3,440m)

From Phakding the trail gently meanders along the Dudh Khosi (Milky River) before it goes up the notorious and steep Namche Hill to the Sherpa capital Namche Bazaar at 3,440m. Namche is the hub of the Khumbu region where everyone meets and does their last-minute expedition shopping.

Day 5: Namche Bazar (3,440m)

We stay in Namche and go on a few acclimatisation hikes to the nearby villages of Khunde and Khumjung (3,880m).

Day 6: Namche Bazar (3,440m)–Dole (4,040m)

We leave Namche in the morning and continue our trek towards the Gokyo valley. We amble along a beautiful path to Sanasa before we leave the Khumbu region and enter the Gokyo valley. You will immediately notice that this valley is much quieter than the Khumbu.

Day 7: Dole (4,040m)–Machhermo (4,410 m)

We continue on the orographically right side of the valley before we climb up via the settlement of Luza to Macchermao (4,410m), where we stay the night.

Day 8: Machhermo (4,410m)–Gokyo (4,750m)

As we continue northwards, the scenery gets wilder. Once we pass Machhermo, we are between the Machhermo Ri and the side moraine of the Nguzumba Glacier. Our trail leads us past two deep-blue lakes to Gokyo which lies at an altitude of 4,750m.

Day 9: Gokyo (4,750m) – Gokyo Ri (5,357m)–Dragnag (4,690m)

Gokyo Ri is our first summit of this trip! We get up early and climb for about two to three hours. The efforts will certainly be rewarded with stunning views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and an endless number of 6,000 and 7,000m peaks. We will also get the first glimpse of our next goal, the summit of Lobuje East (6,145m). Once we are back at Gokyo, we continue south around the Nguzumba Glacier to Na (4,400m). From here, we climb northwestwards across the old moraine to Dragnag (4,690m).

Day 10: Dragnag (4,690m) - Cho La Pass (5,420m) – Dzonglha (4,850m)

We follow the high valley of Nyimagawa to the Cho La Pass from where we descend to Dzonglha, which partially leads us across a glacier. Our lodge sits idyllically on a green spot and offers a magnificent view of the north face of Cholatse.

Day 11: Dzonglha (4,850m) – Lobuje high camp (4,930m)

We return to the Khumgu valley walking past Awi Peak and the big Tshola Tsho lake. We continue along the gigantic tongue of the Khumbu Glacier and climb straight up to Lobuje high camp.

Day 12: Lobuje East (6,100m)

We get up in the dark and start our climb up Lobuje East in the light of our headlamps. We ascend the steep ridge all the way to the summit which is an excellent training for the more challenging sections on Mount Everest. We descend and continue to the village of Lobuje (4,930m).

Day 13: Lobuje (4,930m) – Base Camp (5,200m)

Finally, we arrive at base camp, our home from home. We spend the day settling in.

Day 14 - 15: Base Camp (5,204m)

We spend a couple of days to meet people, relax and explore the surroundings which is an important part of the expedition.

Day 16 to 44: Climbing Mount Everest (8,850m)

Once we are fully acclimatised, we are ready to tackle Mount Everest. We set up 4 camps: Camp 1 at 6,000m above the Khumbu Icefall; Camp II at 6,400m in the Western Cwm (Valley of Silence); Camp III at 7,300m on the Lhotse Face and Camp IV at 7,900m on the South Col.

Our Sherpa have already set up our high camps and equipped them with stoves, gas, mats, sleeping bags and food. Experience have shown that the period between 10 and 25 May is the best time to reach the summit. If the weather gods allow, we will be able to reach the highest point on earth during this time and enjoy looking down to the rest of the world.

Route:

From base camp we follow the maze leading through the Khumbu Icefall and continue on the broken glacier to Camp 1 at around 6,000m. On our way to Camp II which sits in the Valley of Silence, the Western Cwm, we will probably realise that we are finally on our way to the top of the world. Camp II sits on a side moraine at around 6,400m. From here, we continue reasonably flat to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. Once at the Bergschrund, the route becomes more challenging. We ascend the steep Face which - depending on the conditions - can either be covered in snow or in blue ice. There are some flat sections where we can have a rest before we reach Camp III at 7,300, which sits in the middle of the face. The camp is between imposing seracs and is well protected.

From Camp III, we continue up the Lhotse Face to the ‘Yellow Band’. We traverse the long Yellow Band to reach the Geneva Spur, which is named after the 1952 Swiss Everest expedition. This is a historic spot for the Swiss and it makes us realise how hard the 1952 Swiss expedition worked to pave the way for Hillary and Tenzing who reached the summit a year later! From here, it is not very far to Camp IV, which is nestled on the South Col at 7,900m.

We start our summit attempt in the middle of the night. At first, we climb up a couloir which – depending on the conditions – is either covered in snow or rock. At dawn, we reach the top of the rock where we change our oxygen bottles. From here, we can see the south summit and get an idea about the snow conditions higher up on the mountain. After having climbed over the south summit, we descend slightly to the famous Hillary Step, which is the last obstacle between us and the top of the world.

Note: Before the summit push, we climb up to the high camps several times to acclimatise our bodies to the high altitude.

Day 45-47: Base Camp (5,340m) – Kathmandu (1,400m)

It will only take us three days to get back to Kathmandu, where we can enjoy the pleasures of civilization and a good hotel.

Day 48: Kathmandu

Today we are free to buy trinkets, enjoy a typical Nepali haircut or visit the beautiful temples of the capital where we pay respect to the Gods and thank them for their kindness.

Day 49: Flight from Kathmandu

Day 50: Arrival at your home country

The Profile Check is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skills and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning the procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to be able to move independently and confidently over mixed terrain (snow, ice, rock).

Camaraderie and tolerance are of great importance to us.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the expedition leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest.

The climbing Sherpa support the members during the entire expedition, however, we cannot guarantee that individual wishes will be addressed as the climbing Sherpa are responsible for the well-being of the entire group.

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary

Kobler & Partner does not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition by K&P

Domestic flight: Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, including 30 kg baggage

Pre-expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase

All transfers

Fees for climbing permits

Full board during the entire expedition, half board in Kathmandu

Drinks at base camp

Hotel accommodation in single rooms (see programme)

Accommodation in double rooms in lodges on the trek

1 tent per member at base camp

Heated mess tent at base camp, toilet and shower tents

Mess and kitchen tents at Camp II

Tents for high camps

Light sleeping mats for high camps

good sleeping bag per person at base camp

Fixed ropes, man ropes, snow stakes, ice screws

High altitude stove (gas) and pots

Radios: 1 radio (9 volt) per member

Communication (radio) at base camp and at Camp II (12 volt)

Satellite telephone, call charges not included

Wi-Fi at BC and ABC

Weather forecast from Switzerland

Solar panels providing power and light at base camp

Porter or Yaks to base camp and back

Emergency oxygen

Oxygen on the mountain: 8 bottles (4 litres), 1 mask, 1 regulator per member

Large medical kit with pulsometer at BC

Medical kits at the high camps

Kitchen: 1 cook, 2 kitchen boys at base camp

1 climbing Sherpa per member; all our Sherpa are equipped with good gear provided by Kobler & Partner

Oxygen for Sherpa

Hypoxie Tent for Pre-Acclimatisation

Liaison Officer

Local guide

Certified mountain guide

International return flight to Kathmandu (see “Getting there”)

Insurances

Visa fee for Nepal (about 140 CHF for a maximum stay of 90 days as of 09/21)

Individual drinks

Personal medication

Individual tips

In case we cannot find someone to share a double room with you, K&P will cover half of the surcharge for a single room (see additional costs)

Additional charges that may arise due to possible changes to the itinerary

Bottled oxygen:

With more than 100 Everest expeditions, Kobler & Partner have gained vast experience with bottled oxygen, and we would like to pass on our knowledge. Using bottled oxygen hugely reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration and performance while the chances of reaching the summit in good time increases. For this reason, bottled oxygen is included in the expedition price. Every member gets eight oxygen bottles (4 litres), including 1 mask and 1 regulator. This amount of oxygen is sufficient for the climb, however, if you would like more, we can arrange it at a surcharge.

Personal Climbing Sherpa

The expedition price includes one climbing Sherpa per member. If you would like to hire an additional personal Sherpa who will accompany you from base camp to the summit, we can happily arrange this.

Personal mountain guide

If you would like to climb the mountain with a private mountain guide, we are happy to organise this for you. Price upon request.

General

In 2000, Kobler & Partner was one of the first western operators to organise expeditions on the north side in Tibet. As the COVID-19 pandemic has made organising an expedition in Tibet unpredictable, we started running expeditions on the south side in Nepal in 2021.

Communication

Wi-Fi, radio and satellite phone at BC

Power

At BC, we charge all electronic devices such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, e-readers and heated socks either with our solar system or, if needed, with a generator.

Local agency

Our team consists of Nepali Sherpa and a Nepali kitchen team. Over the years, K&P have put together an excellent Sherpa team. As it is important to us that our Sherpa can communicate with our members well, our Sherpa are obliged to take English lessons during the winter months paid for by K&P.

Flexibility

If the weather does not allow us to attempt for the summit during our climbing period, the expedition can be extended if a good weather window is forecast. This decision lies entirely with the expedition leader.

Hotel and tent accommodation is indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

International flights are not included in the expedition price. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has built up a very good reputation that goes beyond Swiss borders and has attracted people from all corners of the world. For this reason, it’s best for everyone to arrange their own flights, however, please consult our office before you book. If you wish, we are happy to arrange the flights for you.

The visa is not included in the expedition price and will be obtained upon arrival. Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months beyond the dates of your trip.

Gear list Expedition Mount Everest

2 duffle bags 110 L (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

Clothing

Jackets

Down jacket or down suit for expeditions

Primaloft jacket or light down jacket

Goretex Jacket

Softshell Jacket

Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

Pants

Trekking pants, light and long

Softshell pants for mountaineering

Goretex pants

Expedition down pants or down suit

Baselayers / T-shirts

T-shirts

Underwear

Long-sleeved thermal top

Thermal tights

Handwear

Insolated shell gloves

Expedition down mittens

Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

Footwear

Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)

Trekking boots

High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m

Trekking Socks

Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

Sleeping

-30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)

-40°C down sleeping bag for high camps

Insulated inflatable sleeping pad

Down booties (nice to have!)

Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

Headgear, face and eye protection

Sunglasses

Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)

Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)

Buff

Baseball cap

Headband

Beanie, warm

Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

Sunscreen, SPF 50

Lipscreen, SPF 50

Technical Equipment

Backpack approximately 40 l

Raincover for backpack

Climbing harness, light

Ice axe, light

Walking poles

Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)

2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)

3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)

Ascender (Jumar)

Belay device (figure 8 recommended)

Helmet

Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)

Cord, 5m, 5 mm

Compression bags for down equipment

Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)

Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)

Thermos

Pee bottle / Plastic bags

Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp

Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman

Lighter

Altimeter

Hand and toe warmers

Miscellaneous

Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)

Cash for personal use and tips

Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

Passport

Passport copy

2 Passport photographs

Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)

Writing utensils

Cellphone

Toiletry bag

Microfibre travel towel

Hand sanitizer (50 ml)

Ear plugs

Tissues, wet wipes

Swimwear

Photographic equipment

Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.