Expedition Mount Everest Northside - Express

The tallest peak in the world will never lose its magic to us humans.

Everest Express: climbing the highest peak in the world via the objectively safer route from the north in 35 days.

Facts

8849 m
Tibet
hard
medium
13

The adventure

MaxOx: maximal and unlimited oxygen support from Advanced Base Camp (ABC). If needed, we offer additional oxygen from base camp.

Hypoxia: pre-acclimatisation in a hypoxia-tent at home. 

Sherpa: two Sherpas with Everest experience per member.

UIAGM-Mountain Guides: Himalaya legend Kari Kobler has stood on top of Mount Everest six times and has organised 20 Everest expeditions. Andreas Neuschmid has reached the summits of various 8,000m peaks eleven times, including three Everest summits. He guided K&P clients on all his successful climbs.

The north side of Mount Everest is objectively safer than the south side where climbers have to negotiate the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse face. The north side also sees substantially fewer climbers than the south side in Nepal. 

Tibet experience: no other trekking agency has more experience in climbing Everest from Tibet and has better contacts in Tibet than K&P. 

Co-operation: partner agencies and mountain guides from all over the world work with K&P on Everest and benefit from Kari’s experience on the North side.

Kari Kobler has organised Mount Everest expeditions in Tibet since 2000. Looking at it now, it was certainly the right decision to focus our efforts on the north side of the highest mountain in the world. Climbing Mt. Everest from Tibet is objectively safer than climbing it from the south in Nepal. What’s more: the Tibetan authorities issue far fewer permits than the Nepal government, which makes the mountain less crowded.

With our 20th anniversary coming up, Kobler & Partner has decided to take a new direction. We now offer an Everest Express expedition on top of our traditional Everest trip. This expedition, which lasts 35 days, is tailor-made for those who want to climb the highest peak in the world but do not have the time to spend two months on the mountain.

The duration of the Everest Express Expedition allows us a fast, safe and well-organised ascent. At the time of writing, Kobler & Partner are opposed to an even shorter time window to climb the highest mountain in the world. 

Participation in this expedition requires expedition experience. In order to be well acclimatised on the mountain, we require our members to use a hypoxia-tent at home prior to the expedition. The expedition offers a shorter approach to base camp, maximal oxygen support during the ascent and a fast journey home after the summit.

Day 1 - Day 2: Flight to Chengdu or, if available, Chongqing

Scheduled flight to Chengdu, respectively Chongqing, depending on the availability of flights and connectivity to Xigatse. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Flight from Chengdu or Chongqing to Xigatse

In the morning, we take a domestic flight to Xigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. In the afternoon, we will visit the Tashilumpo Palace, the seat of the Panchen Lama, who is almost as revered as the Dalai Lama. Accommodation in a comfortable 5-star hotel. 

Day 4: Xigatse - Everest Base Camp

Early in the morning, we will drive across the Tibetan Plateau and cross the Pang La (5,210 m) from where we get our first glimpss of some of the Himalayan giants such as Makalu, Everest and Cho Oyu. At Everest base camp (5,200 m), we will be heartily greeted by our Nepalese and Tibetan team. Tent accommodation. 

Day 5 - Day 6: Base Camp – Rest Days

Now it’s time to settle in at base camp. You will move into your roomy tent (20 square metres) with bed, desk, power supply and WiFi. During this time, we will also check the effectiveness of our pre-acclimatisation. If problems occur, we will provide our members with our oxygen-on-demand-system during the night. 

Day 7: Acclimatisation Tour

Today, we’ll go on a long walk with a light backpack which will support our acclimatisation process. 

Day 8: Base Camp - Rest Day 

Today, we’ll load four gear for Advanced Base Camp (ABC) onto the yaks. Some of our Sherpas have been at ABC for a while and have set up our tent city at 6,400 m. Before we reach ABC, we will make a small detour and pop in to see Rongbuk monastery. 

Day 9: Intermediate Camp

On our hike to ABC, we first follow the Rongbuk Glacier and later we follow the East Rongbuk Glacier. This is certainly one of the most spectacular hikes in the mountain world of Tibet. But don’t underestimate the distance of 25km, which is a long way to walk at the beginning of an expedition. For this reason, we will spend the night at intermediate camp at 5,700 m. During the entire duration of the expedition, K&P maintains a camp with a kitchen and a kitchen crew there. 

Day 10: Advanced Base Camp (ABC)

At 6,400 m at the foot of the North Col stands our comfortable Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Every member has a two-person tent at their disposal. An isolated and heated mess tent with a magnificent view of the dramatic scenery of the north face of Everest makes the stay at this rather significant height rather comfortable. Via a satellite modem we keep in contact with the rest of the world and receive a detailed weather forecast by a Swiss meteorological station every day. 

Day 11 - Day 13: Rest Days at ABC

Day 14 - Day 15: North Col (7,000 m)

Today, we climb up the fixed ropes to Camp I at the North Col. After having spent two nights at this altitude, we should finish our acclimatisation period.

Day 16: Descent and Overnight Stay at ABC

Day 17: Descent to Base Camp.

Down here, we will recover from the exhaustion of the past week and enjoy the amenities of base camp. The thick air will feel good after days at much greater altitudes. 

Day 18 - Day 21: Rest Days at BC

We follow the daily weather forecast provided by Meteotest Bern and let our kitchen team spoil us with delicious food.

Day 22: Ascent to intermediate camp

Day 23: Ascent to ABC

Day 24: North Col / Camp I (7,000 m)

Day 25: Camp II (7,800 m)

From the North Col, we continue over the very long and exposed but relatively safe north-east ridge to Camp II at 7,800 m.

Day 26: Camp III (8,300 m)

Above Camp II, we cross the north-west flank. It’s moderately difficult. After about five hours, we reach Camp III where our Sherpas have already pitched our tents. 

Day 27: Mt. Everest (8,848 m)

We reach the north ridge via a ridge with a few easy climbing passages. We then negotiate the relatively easy First Step with fixed ropes before we climb up the famous ladders of the Second Step at approx. 8,600 m. Once you have managed to reach this point, you should be able to tackle the Third Step as well as the summit ridge with no problems. After the summit, we descend as far as we possibly can. 

Day 28 - Day 31: Spare Days

Day 32: Descent to BC

Day 33: Drive to Xigatse, Accommodation in a 5-Star Hotel

Day 34: Flight to Chongqing or Chengdu and connecting flight to your home country

Day 35: Arrival in your home country

Important info

The Profilcheck is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skills and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning the procedure of this expedition:

  • The expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.
  • The members have to be able to move independently and confidently over mixed terrain (snow, ice, rock).
  • Camaraderie and tolerance are of great importance to us. 
  • You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.
  • The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the expedition leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 
  • The climbing Sherpas support the members during the entire expedition, however, we cannot guarantee that individual wishes will be addressed as the climbing Sherpas are responsible for the well-being of the entire group. 

     

  • Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.
  • Kobler & Partner does not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Included

Organisation of the entire expedition

Transfer Shigatse - Base Camp - Shigatse in a Toyota Landcruiser

Pre-expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase

Entrance fees to the sights in Tibet

Summit fees

Tibet visa (will be obtained in China; the visa for China has to be organised ahead of time in your home country; the fee for the Chinese visa is not included in the expedition price)

Visa-Support China

Full-board during the entire trip

Drinks during group meals

2 nights in double rooms in a 5-Star Hotel in Shigatse

1 night in double room in hotel in Chongking

1 comfortable tent (20 square metres) per member at base camp

1 tent per 2 members at intermediate camp (5,700 m)

1 tent per member at ABC

1 tent per 2 members at the high camps

Roomy, heated dome-tent at base camp and ABC (6,400 m)

Toilet- and shower tents at BC and ABC

Bed with mattress at base camp

Sleeping mats at intermediate camp and at ABC

1 good sleeping bag per member at base camp

1 good sleeping bag per member at ABC and intermediate camp

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws

High altitude stove (gas) and cookware

Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per member

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

Internet and e-mail access at ABC

Daily weather forecast from Meteotest in Switzerland

Communication (radio) at base camp, intermediate camp, ABC and high camps

Solar system for lighting in mess tent at ABC

Electricity at base camp and ABC

Unlimited electricity (220 v) at base camp

Gear transport with yaks until ABC and back

1 rescue sledge

Emergency oxygen on the mountain

Unlimited oxygen support

Large medical kit at base camp, intermediate camp and ABC

Medical kit at high camps

Medical kit for summit attempt

Kitchen: chef and kitchen boys at base camp, intermediate camp, ABC and Camp I

2 climbing sherpas per member including insurance, provisions, salary and good equipment provided by Kobler & Partner

Costs for liaison officer 

Costs for local tour guide and translator

Costs for obligatory garbage removal fee

UIAGM certified mountain guides (Kari Kobler and Andreas Neuschmid)

Not included

  • International flight Europe - Chengdu / Chongqing and back (look at approach)
  • Domestic flight from Chengdu / Chongqing to Shigatse and back (look at approach)
  • Personal insurance
  • Visa fee for China (approx. 230 CHF)
  • Personal medication
  • Individual tips
  • Summit bonus for sherpas (approx. 800 USD)
  • Surcharges that may arise due to possible changes to the itinerary

Maximal Oxygen Support:

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of supplemental oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time. 

The Everest Express Expedition offers unlimited oxygen support from ABC. If you encounter problems during the acclimatisation, we will also support you with our new oxygen-on-demand-system at base camp. 

K&P Mountain Guide on the Everest:

Kari Kobler and Andreas Neuschmid are both UIAGM-certified mountain guides and combined they have led more than 50 expeditions to 8,000m peaks. This means that you will be looked after by some of the best Everest guides in the world.

Miscellaneous

In 2000, Kobler & Partner was one of the first western operators to organise and manage expeditions on the north side of Mount Everest. We are now one of the most experienced Everest operators in Europe.

The Kobler & Partner Base Camp has become a popular meeting point on the North side of Mount Everest. 

If you have any further questions, please check our 16 Questions and Answers about the Everest Expedition below. 

Communication

Internet, WiFi, satellite phones, email are available at base camp and ABC

  • At the Base Camp we have unlimited electricity (220 v).

    At ABC, you can charge all your electronic devices such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, e-readers and heating socks. . As the power is generated through our solar system, power at ABC is not unlimited. Please leave your laptops at home, they simply use too much power!

  • At base camp, there is mobile phone connection provided by China Mobile. Please be advised to purchase a data package for China from your mobile phone provider before your departure.
  • At ABC, K&P provides a BGAN satellite terminal, a laptop and an email address that can be used by all expedition members.

    Local Agency

    Our crew consists of Nepali Sherpas and a Nepali kitchen crew. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has established an amazing Sherpa team. For the best possible communication between local staff and members, Kobler & Partner organises English lessons for the Sherpas during the winter months. Preparations and recruitment of the local crew starts already in the autumn prior to the expedition.

    Flexibility

    In case the weather does not allow for an ascent within the given time of our itinerary, there is the option to extend the trip. The decision lies completely with the expedition leader.

    16 Questions and Answers concerning the Express Everest Expedition

    Which operator should I choose? Please find a list of questions below:

  • 1. Who is Kobler & Partner?

    K&P is a Swiss expedition operator set up in 1990 by the two UIAGM Mountain Guides Kari Kobler and Ruedi Kellerhals. K&P specialises in organising and managing expeditions to the Seven Summits and other peaks of the big mountain ranges in the world. 

  • 2. How many Everest expeditions have been organised by Kobler & Partner?

    Kobler & Partner has run Everest expeditions every year since 2000. 

  • 3. How does climbing Everest from the north compare to the south?

    This is a tough question to answer. Kobler & Partner prefers the North Col route as it is considered the safer route to the top of the world. Furthermore, the permits in Tibet are limited which means it does not get as busy as the south side in Nepal.

  • 4. What agency does K&P work with in Tibet?

    K&P works with the Nepali agency Himalaya Vision. Kari Kobler is the co-owner of Himalaya Vision. In Tibet, K&P co-operates with the Tibet Mountaineering Association (TMA). 

  • 5. Who are Kobler & Parter’s expedition leaders, respectively mountain guides?

    In spring 2020, the K&P Mount Everest Expedition is led by two UIAGM mountain guides ,Kari Kobler and Andreas Neuschmid. Kari Kobler has reached the summit of Everest six times while Andreas has stood on top of the world three times. In 2020, Kari Kobler will be the expedition leader for Everest and it will be his 20th time!

  • 6. How do we get to base camp? Via Kathmandu or Tibet? How many days does it take?

    Our Express team will fly directly to Xigatse and drive to base camp from there. Thanks to their pre-acclimatisation, they will arrive at base camp fit and healthy. 

  • 7. How large is the team?

    The minimum number of members for us to run this expedition is two, the maximal number is eight.

  • 8. What does the acclimatisation rotation look like?

    After we have spent two rest days at BC (5,200m) and hiked up to about 6,000 m, we shift our activities to ABC (6,400 m). We will finish our acclimatisation programme with one night at the North Col / Camp I (7,000 m). 

  • 9. How do we prepare our meals at the high camps?

    The meals at the three high camps are prepared with the help of your personal Sherpa. At Camp I at 7,000 m, there is a chef. 

  • 10. What does the infrastructure at ABC look like?

    ABC at 6,400 m is fully equipped. We have single tents for each member, a heated dome tent as mess tent, a kitchen tent which is run by a chef and kitchen boys, a shower and a toilet tent, Wi-Fi and a satellite phone. 

  • 11. How many climbing Sherpas are on the expedition?

    We hire two climbing Sherpas per member. All our climbing Sherpas speak English. 

  • 12. Have the Sherpas climbed Everest before?

    All our Sherpas have climbed Everest before, some of them as often as 20 times.

  • 13. Oxygen: How many oxygen bottles are available per member?

    Our Express Everest members will have unlimited access to oxygen bottles from ABC. 

  • 14. Are there any medical kits above ABC?

    Every high camp is stocked with a high altitude medical kit while every mountain guide carries a medical kit that contains all relevant high altitude drugs. We will give every member their own emergency medical kit to carry and stock spare oxygen bottles at every high camp for emergencies. 

  • 15. Is there a base camp manager, who can be reached round the clock during the summit attempt?

    Yes. Our base camp manager is in constant radio contact with the mountain guides and Sherpas and will be reachable round the clock during out summit attempt. The BC manager provides the team with the latest weather report and, in case of emergencies, coordinates any rescue mission.

  • 16. Which weather forecast does K&P use? How often will we get updates?

    K&P uses Meteotest Bern in Switzerland who provides us with a very reliable daily weather forecasts. Having done this for 20 years, Meteotest is the most experienced weather forecast provider for Mount Everest. A precise and reliable weather forecast is incredibly important for our summit success. During our summit attempt, the BC manager will be in contact with Meteotest around the clock.

  • Hotel and tent accommodation are indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

    Trip preparation

    International flights are not included in the expedition price. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has built up a very good reputation that goes beyond Swiss borders and has attracted people from all corners of the world. For this reason, it’s best for everyone to arrange their own flights. On demand, however, we can look after your travel arrangements.

    Kobler & Partner will organise the visa for China for Swiss nationals as well as C-permit holders in Switzerland and will bill the cost for the visa separately. Other nationals have to arrange for their own visa well ahead of time. K&P will provide all necessary documents in due course.

    K&P will organise the Tibet visa for all members which is included in the expedition price. All necessary paperwork will be supplied in due time before the start of the expedition. Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months after your intended return date. We require our members to provide us with relevant personal information such as medical certificate, colour passport copy, etc.) at least 60 days before the start of the expedition.

    Gearlist Expedition Everest Express

    • 2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

      Clothing

      Jackets

      • Down jacket or down suit for expeditions
      • Primaloft jacket or light down jacket
      • Goretex Jacket
      • Softshell Jacket
      • Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

        Pants

      • Trekking pants, light and long
      • Softshell pants for mountaineering
      • Goretex pants
      • Expedition down pants or down suit

        Baselayers / T-shirts

      • T-shirts
      • Underwear
      • Long-sleeved thermal top
      • Thermal tights

        Handwear

      • Insolated shell gloves
      • Expedition down mittens
      • Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

        Footwear

      • Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)
      • Trekking boots
      • High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m
      • Trekking Socks
      • Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

        Sleeping

      • -30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)
      • -40°C down sleeping bag for high camps
      • Insulated inflatable sleeping pad
      • Down booties (nice to have!)
      • Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

        Headgear, face and eye protection

      • Sunglasses
      • Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)
      • Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)
      • Buff
      • Baseball cap
      • Headband
      • Beanie, warm
      • Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)
      • Sunscreen, SPF 50
      • Lipscreen, SPF 50

        Technical Equipment

      • Backpack approximately 40 l
      • Raincover for backpack
      • Climbing harness, light
      • Ice axe, light
      • Walking poles
      • Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)
      • 2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)
      • 3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)
      • Ascender (Jumar)
      • Belay device (figure 8 recommended)
      • Helmet
      • Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)
      • Cord, 5m, 5 mm
      • Compression bags for down equipment
      • Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)
      • Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)
      • Thermos
      • Pee bottle / Plastic bags
      • Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp
      • Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman
      • Lighter
      • Altimeter
      • Hand and toe warmers

        Miscellaneous

      • Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)
      • Cash for personal use and tips
      • Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)
      • Passport
      • Passport copy
      • 2 Passport photographs
      • Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)
      • Writing utensils
      • Cellphone
      • Toiletry bag
      • Microfibre travel towel
      • Hand sanitizer (50 ml)
      • Ear plugs
      • Tissues, wet wipes
      • Swimwear
      • Photographic equipment

      Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.

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