Expedition Kazbek & Elbrus

The Caucasus is the geographic boundary between Europe and Asia. This mountain range is home to 100 summits higher than 5,000m.

Even though the peaks in the Caucasus do not reach the height of the mighty Himalaya, expeditions to this mountain range do not shun any comparison. Especially not when you do two peaks like on this trip!

Day 1: Flight to Tiflis

Day 2: Arrival in Tiflis and transfer to Gergeti

Our local guide will pick us up from the airport and take us to Gergeti. On this 150km-long and very versatile drive through untouched nature, we cross the 2,380m-high Jvari pass from where we can see our first goal, the 5,033m-high Kazbek mountain. In Gergeti, we move into our hotel near the famous Trinity Church for the next two nights.

Day 3: Acclimatisation and Preparation

Today we embark on an acclimatisation trip to Juta, a small village at the end of the Achkoti Valley. It lies in the middle of the Kazbegi National Park which offers countless hikes and trekking routes. We opt for a trek across beautiful alpine meadows to reach an altitude of 3,000m. Back at the hotel, we have dinner and prepare our gear for our upcoming climb of Kazbek.

Day 4: Ascent to the Betlemi Hut (3,675m)

After a hearty breakfast, we leave our hotel and start the long climb to the Betlemi hut. After about three quarters of the way, we will most certainly stop at the newly constructed Altihut for some refreshments. The hut was built with the support of the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC) to promote local tourism in the region. We continue at a leisurely pace and reach the Betlemi hut at 3,675m in about seven hours. The former meteorological station is the common starting point for the summit attempt. Even though the Betlemi hut has been modernised over the past few years, it still does not always meet everyone’s expectations.

Day 5 to 7: Kazbek (5,033m)

We have three days to climb the 5,033m-high Kazbek mountain. As the key to summit success is for all members to be well acclimatised, we first ascend the 4,390m-high Ortsveri. From here, we have a magnificent view of Kazbek, our next goal.

On our summit day, we start at the crack of dawn! We quickly reach the Gergeti Glacier where we rope up to be safe for glacier travel. After we have crossed this first crevassed section, we climb across snow and ice slopes to reach the final incline which hovers between 40° and 45°. Depending on the conditions, this section is often fixed with ropes to facilitate the ascent. Once we reach the summit, our efforts will surely be compensated with a wonderful panorama.

We descend the same route which requires our full concentration one more time. In the evening of the seventh day, we will be back in the valley and before we return to our hotel, we will visit the famous Gergeti Trinity Church. The cross-cupola church with its bell tower from the 14th century is one of the most historic buildings in Georgia. We have scheduled enough time for the ascent and have even included a spare day in our itinerary.

Day 8: Drive to Terskol

Today we go on an interesting drive along the Georgian Military Road and cross over to the north side of the mountain range.

This 280km-long trip takes us through the impressive 11km-long Darial Gorge. The natural gorge in the Caucasus is very historical and used to have strategic significance. It is east of Kasbek and was carved by the river Terek. The steep granite walls of the gorge can be as high as 600m and as narrow as 8m in some places. Once through the gorge, we reach the expanse of the southern Russian steppe and drive on a good road along the northern foothills of the Caucasus to reach Baksan, a significant and historical town. We drive through the Baksan Valley and after one hour, we reach Terskol, the starting point for our Elbrus ascent. We check into a small but charming hotel.

9.–11. Tag: Elbrus

We have scheduled three days for climbing the “King of the Caucasus”. At first, we take the cable car to the Mir station at 3,469m from where we walk to a comfortable refuge at 3,900m, which is an ideal base for the upcoming climb. We spend the rest of the day relaxing and preserving our strength for the summit bid.

As we are well acclimatised, we can start immediately. The summit day is long and requires a good deal of willpower even though we are already accustomed to the altitude. We leave the refuge in the dark, usually around 2am and 3am, to reach the Pastuchov Rocks at sunrise. We continue to the saddle at 5,300m from where we start the remaining 300 metres to reach the top of Europe in hopefully glorious weather. If the skies are clear, we can see as far as the Caspian and the Black Sea. After a well-deserved summit rest, we gather our remaining energy and concentration and descend back to the refuge.

Back at the refuge, we celebrate our summit success and maybe even relax a bit. The following day can be taken quite leisurely as we only have to descend to the Mir station from where we take the cable car back to Terskol and go straight to the hotel. In the afternoon, we go for a stroll and maybe even have a delicious freshly made meat skewer from one of the shashlik stands. If needed, this day can also be used for the summit attempt.

Day 12: Terskol–Pyatigorsk/Spare Day

Elbrus should only be climbed in fine weather. However, as it is impossible to plan the weather it is important to include a spare day in the itinerary. If we reach the summit as planned, we will visit Pyatigorsk, a typical Russian town. This additional trip, which will only happen if we do not need the spare day for climbing Elbrus, will give us a good insight into what everyday life is like in Russia.

Day 13: Pyatigorsk–Zurich

After breakfast, we head to the airport and board our planes that take us back to our home countries.

The Profilecheck is a fixed part of the detailed programme. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skill and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members do not have to be ‘super alpinistis’, however, they should have a solid amount of high altitude mountaineering experience.

-You have to be able to move securely and independently through very rough terrain (snow, ice, rock, etc) and be able to independently rope up with a group. Active participation on the mountain, camaraderie and tolerance are an essential part of this expedition and we count on you to be able to provide this.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility.

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest.

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner do not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition

Pre-expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase

Climbing and National Park fees

Fee for Kazbek climbing permit

Fee for Elbrus climbing permit

All transfers in bus and jeep according to itinerary

Visa Support (see travel documents)

Transfers according to itinerary

Full board during the entire expedition

Non-alcoholic drinks

Accommodation in a good guesthouse in Gergeti 

Accommodation in a good hotel in Terskol (basic double room) 

Accommodation in a good hotel in Pyatigorsk (basic double room)

Accommodation in simple huts on Kazbek and Elbrus

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws

Mule support on ascent to Betlemi hut

Large medical kit with pulse oxymetre

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

Ropes, safety equipment, etc.

Well-stocked medical kit

Chef

Local, English-speaking guide

Certified and experienced mountain guide

International flights to Lhasa, from Kathmandu

Insurances

Visa fee

Alcoholic beverages and all beverages

Personal medication

Individual tips

In case no roommate can be found for a booked double room, we charge half of the single room surcharge (see Additional Costs)

Surcharges that may arise due to changes being made to the planned travel programme

The first part of the climb up to the Pastuchova Rocks can be done in a Ratrac or snowcat, which is highly recommended. As the rates for this service change on a daily basis, it is not included in the expedition price. Your mountain guide will negotiate a suitable fee for the Kobler & Partner team and collect the amount cash in Swiss francs or Euros.

In Pyatigorsk and Terskol we stay in a hotel (basic double room); in Kazbegi we stay in a guesthouse. The other nights, we stay in simple lodges.

The expedition price includes international flights. Scheduled flights from Switzerland usually depart in the evenings, however, airlines’ flight times are subject to change. We are also happy to check other points of departure for you.

If your point of departure results in additional charge we will inform you in due time. For train times to Swiss airports, please check the timetable of the Swiss Railways.

Equipment List Expedition Kazbek & Elbrus

110 L duffel bag (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members

Clothing

Jackets

Gore-Tex Jacket

Primaloft Jacket or light Down Jacket

Soft-Shell Jacket

Fleece Sweater or Fleece Jacket

Trousers

Trekking Trousers, light and long

Soft-Shell Pant, warm

Gore-Tex Trousers

Down Trousers, thin or Primaloft

Underwear / T-Shirts

T-shirts

Gloves

Warm gloves

Down Mittens

Liner Gloves, thin, silk or fleece

Footwear

Mountaineering boots (insulated) or 6,000m expedition boots

Trekking Shoes

Comfortable Shoes (Running Shoes for Base Camp)

Trekking Socks

Thin socks

Sleeping

Down Sleeping Bag (-5°C)

Stuff sack for down gear

Sleeping mat

Head-, Face- and Eye-Protection

Sunglasses or glacier goggles with nose protection

Ski Goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from wind)

Buff

Headband

Beanie, warm

Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

Sun Cream, SPF 50

Lip Protection, SPF 50

Technical Equipment

Backpack approximately 60 l

Rain Cover for backpack

Crampons with Anti Ball Plates (customised to fit Ski Touring Boots), Aluminium

Ice Axe, light

Walking poles, light

Harness

2 HMS Carabiners (screwgate)

2 Carabiners (wire gate)

Cord, 5m, 5 mm

Sling 120 cm / Dyneema

Helmet not required

Thermos Bottle

Headlamp (including spare batteries)

Altimeter

Pen knife or multitool/leatherman

Lighter with flintstone

Light bowl and cutlery

Drink bottle with large openine

Miscellaneous

Departure letter from K&P (contains last-minute information)

Passport and passport copy

Cash for personal use and tips

Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

Small travelling pharmacy (personal medication / compeed)

Cellphone

Camera

Toilet bag

Towel (microfibre cloth)

Hand disinfectant (50 ml)

Travel towel

Swimwear

Medical kits for base camp and the high camps, radios, GPS, travel literature and maps are provided by the K&P mountain guide.