Gasherbrum II

An amazing trip to the “Shining Mountain”

The most popular 8,000m peak in Pakistan should not be underestimated. It certainly needs devotion and spirit for adventure.

Facts

8035 m
Pakistan
schwer
mittel
12B

The adventure

Gasherbrum II is considered the easiest 8,000m peak in Pakistan.

Its base camp is located in an unbelievably wild and very impressive glacial world. 

During our approach via the 100km long Baltoro Glacier, we have time to get to know one of the greatest mountain regions in the world. On our way back, we climb across the spectacular Gondogora La, which will certainly finish our expedition on a high.

The region is dotted with other significant giants, where mountaineering history was written, especially K2.

The finely curved summit of G2 is located right in the middle of the magnificent horseshoe of the Gasherbrum mountain range.

Quality Bonus: At least two experienced Nepali climbing Sherpas will support our expedition.

We offer one high-altitude porter per three members.

We receive daily weather forecast from Switzerland.

Pakistan is home to five of the 14 8,000m peaks in the world, two of which are Gasherbrum I and II. Other than Everest, Lhotse, Makalu or Ama Dablam, the Gasherbrum range, which is also known as the “Shining Wall”, is not located in the Himalaya but in its sister range, the Karakoram.

 

Having been under British rule until 1947, it is not surprising that the Brits were the first to map the Karakoram, which spans the borders of Pakistan, India, China, Afghanistan and Tajikistan. In 1909, an expedition led by the Duke of Abruzzi reached the Gasherbrum range via the North in China, a route which remains largely unknown to this very day. Twenty-five years later, Swiss mountaineer G.O. Dyhrenfurth reached an altitude of 6,250 metres on Gasherbrum II, when he crossed the Baltoro Glacier and approached the 13th highest mountain in the world from the south in Pakistan After this early attempt it was quiet in the “Valley of the Shining Wall” until 1956, when an Austrian expedition under the leadership of F. Moravec finally reached the top of Gasherbrum II via its Southwest ridge. We will follow the footsteps of this first successful expedition as it is the most accessible and considered relatively safe.

Weather-permitting, we will get on a plane to Skardu which takes us directly over Nanga Parbat – the 9th highest mountain in the world – and offers magnificent views of the Karakoram and Himalaya ranges. If the weather fails us, we will embark on an adventurous two-day journey up the Karakoram Highway to Skardu. From there, the skilled Balti drivers will take us on an exciting trip to Askole, where we will meet our team and start our trek, which takes us across the Baltoro-Glacier – one of the longest glaciers in the world. On our way to base camp, we will walk through one of the most impressive mountain ranges on earth with some of the most famous mountain giants such as K2, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, Muztagh Tower and Trango Tower towering above us.

Day 1: Scheduled flight to Islamabad

Day 2: Islamabad

We will arrive in Islamabad in the morning. The Pakistani capital is the gate to the unique mountain world of northern Pakistan. After visiting the neighbouring town of Rawalpindi or seeing some sights in Islamabad, we will visit the Ministry of Tourism for our expedition briefing. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Islamabad - Skardu

Scheduled flight to Skardu. This one-hour flight offers spectacular views of Nanga Parbat, the westernmost 8,000er and ninth highest mountain in the world. As this flight only operates in good visibility, it is subject to cancellation. If this is the case, we will go by car along the legendary Karakoram Highway which will add some time to our journey as it takes about one and a half days. 

Day 4: Skardu

It takes a day to assemble the porter crew and divide all expedition gear into 25 kg loads. This gives us some time to explore the beautiful village and its surroundings. This is also the last night we can enjoy the comforts of a hotel bed. From Day 5, we will sleep in tents.

Day 5: Skardu - Askole

We load our entire luggage onto the jeeps. Depending on the road conditions, we reach Askole (3,048m) after about six to seven hours on a spectacular road. First night in a tent.

Day 6 - Day 12: Askole - Korophon - Paiju - Liligo - Urdukas - Konkordia - Base Camp

Our first trekking days take us through the very arid and almost desert-like region with a few river crossings. After about six hours, we reach the beautiful and well-equipped campsite at Korophan at 3,253 m. On the second day, we reach Paiju (3,785 m), the last oasis before we enter the wild and romantic but dry glacial world of the Karakoram. We stay two nights in Paiju as our porters need a day to prepare the food for the next few days. On the fourth day, we hike to Urdukas before we reach the Baltoro Glacier from where we can enjoy wonderful views of the rugged peaks of the Karakoram, such as the Trango Towers. We continue past Muztagh Tower to reach Gore. From now on, we will be camping on the eternal ice of the Baltoro Glacier. Once we reach Concordia, the confluence of the Baltoro and the Godwin-Austen Glaciers, we will be able to enjoy breathtaking views of mountain giants such as K2, Gasherbrum IV, Chogolisa and Broad Peak. The 12th and last day of our approach march takes us along the beautiful Godwin-Austin Glacier for about five hours before reach Base Camp, our temporary home which is surrounded by numerous significant peaks.

Day 13 - Day 39: Gasherbrum II (8,035 m)

We have 27 days to climb Gasherbrum II. Past experience has shown that this time frame is neither too long not too short as proper acclimatisation is the most critical factor for summit success. With the help of our Pakistani porters, we establish three high camps: Camp I at approximately 5,900 m; Camp II at approximately 6,900 m and Camp III at approximately 7,400 m. Initially, the route leads over a flat and long glacier, which can be crevassed at times. Camp I is located at the foot of the prominent south-west ridge, which is also known as Banana Ridge. From here, the terrain gets steeper, however, our Sherpas and Pakistani high-altitude porters (HAPs) will fix rope on large parts of the south-west ridge which becomes the south-west flank higher up. We continue on the flank up to the south ridge, where we establish our Camp II at approximately 6,900 m. Technically, this is one of the most difficult sections of the climb. This section will also be fixed which is not only necessary for the ascent, but also for the descent. From Camp II, we climb the ridge to Camp III at approximately 7,400 m. On the final section of the ascent, we climb underneath the massive summit structure before we gain a distinct saddle on the east side of Gasherbrum II. We reach the summit via the eastern ridge. The distinct shape of the summit of Gasherbrum II offers a spectacular view of the giants of the Karakoram. 

Please Note: The establishment of Camp III at approximately 7,400 m cannot be guaranteed. The camp is extremely exposed to the wind and in dry conditions it is incredibly difficult to pitch tents. If this is the case, we will establish our Camp III at approximately 7,100 m and attempt the summit from this point. We have been successful several times with this strategy. 

Day 40 - Day 42: Base Camp – Gondogora La – Skardu

After almost one month, we bid goodbye to what had become our temporary home and head back to civilisation. In order to add some spice to the trip, we take a different route and walk out to the Hushe Valley via the spectacular Gondogora La. We return to Concordia from where we head to Ali Camp via the Baltoro Glacier. Ali Camp lies at the foot of Chogolisa, the mountain where legendary Austrian climber who together with Kurt Diemberger became the first person to climb Broad Peak, fell to his death in 1957. In true expedition style, we start our ascent in the middle of the night. The sun should just come up when we reach the top of the pass from where we can enjoy a splendid view of the wild and romantic Hushe Valley. On our descent, we will increasingly enjoy the greenness and lushness of the area which will feel soothing after having spent a month on the barren glacier. We will stay the night in Saitscho from where we will walk for another two hours to reach the road head in Hushe the following day. After a five-hour drive we will reach Skardu. Hotel accommodation.

Day 43 - Day 44: Flight Skardu - Islamabad

The flight is only possible in good weather. In case the weather Gods are not favourable to us, we will drive back to Islamabad. Hotel accommodation.

Day 45: Islamabad

Today we have a bit of time to visit the bazaars and buy last-minute souvenirs. Afterwards, the obligatory debriefing takes place at the Ministry of Tourism. Evening flight back home.

Day 46: Arrival in your home country.

Important info

The Profilecheck is an integral part of our expedition. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skill and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to be able to move securely and independently through very rough terrain (snow, ice, rock, etc.). You have to independently rope up with a group. Active participation on the mountain, camaraderie and tolerance are an essential part of this expedition and we count on you to be able to provide this.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility. 

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner do not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Included

  • Organisation of the entire expedition
  • Domestic flights: Islamabad - Skardu - Islamabad (subject to weather, otherwise transfer by road)
  • Expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10% voucher for equipment
  • Summit fees
  • Full board during the entire expedition
  • Beverages during group meals, except for alcoholic beverages
  • Number of hotel nights in double rooms (indicated in itinerary)
  • Gear transport to and from Base Camp (mules or porters)
  • Entire base camp equipment (comfortable mess tent, toilet tent, shower tent ...)
  • 1 BC tent per member
  • 1 tent per 2 members during the approach and at the high camps
  • Foam pad at base camp
  • Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, etc.
  • High altitude stove (gas) and cookware (gas)
  • Communications (radio) at Base Camp (12 volts)
  • Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per 2 members
  • Satellite phones, exclusive call charges
  • Internet and e-mail access at base camp (exclusive charges)
  • Weather forecast from Meteotest, Bern
  • Solar panels for lighting in the messtent
  • Solar power at Base Camp to charge electronical devices (availability subject to weather)
  • Rescue sledge for emergencies
  • Medical oxygen for emergencies
  • Large medical kit with pulseoximetre at base camp
  • Medical kits for high camps
  • Medical kits for summit bid
  • Kitchen: cook and kitchen helpers
  • 1 porter per 3 members, including insurance, food, fee and good equipment from Kobler & Partner (thereof minimum 2 climbing Sherpas from Nepal)
  • Costs for obligatory liaison officer
  • Certified and experienced mountain guide

Not included

  • Insurances
  • Personal porter for high camps (if required, please book in advance)
  • Alcoholic drinks
  • Individual beverages
  • Visa fee for Pakistan
  • Personal medication
  • Additional costs that may arise due to changes being made to the planned travel itinerary

Bottled Oxygen

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Mt. Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of bottled oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time. 

For this reason, we recommend the use of bottled oxygen for climbing an 8,000m peak. Using bottled oxygen is optional on our expeditions and the amount needed depends on every individual. This is why bottled oxygen is not included in the overall expedition price.

Costs

Checked and filled oxygen bottles have to be purchased a long time before the start of an expedition. Hence, the rental of an oxygen set has to be paid prior to the expedition. The rental price for one set includes one oxygen bottle, mask, regulator as well as transport to the high camps and back. 

In case of damage or loss of the equipment, the cost for repairs or replacement has to be covered by the person who rented the equipment. If the rented equipment is not used, the rental costs cannot be refunded.

Personal Porter Support

On this expedition, you have the option to hire a personal porter. This individual support will make your experience much more comfortable. A personal porter carries part of your personal gear (around 10 kg) to the high camps and supports you on your climb. Using a personal porter adds manpower to our trip and increases the safety of the entire expedition. 

Over the last few years, we have also used Nepali Climbing Sherpas on our expeditions outside Nepal. The fee for a Nepali Climbing Sherpa is a bit higher than for Pakistanis, however, the advantages outweigh the difference in price by far. As long as the Pakistani government permits Nepali Sherpas to work on our expeditions, we will offer this extra service as it is certainly worthwhile.

Personal Porter

1 porter per 3 members (thereof 2 Climbing Sherpas from Nepal)

Climate

The best time to climb an 8,000m peak in the Karakoram is between the beginning of June and mid-August. The weather is more stable in late summer as this is the tail-end of the monsoon. However, a certain amount of luck is always needed when climbing in the Karakoram.

Local agency

Kobler & Partner have relied on its renowned Pakistani partner agency for many years. Our team consists of experienced local high altitude porters and an extremely committed Pakistan kitchen team. Over the years, we have built up an excellent team of high altitude porters. The preparations and recruitment of the local team for our expeditions usually start in the autumn of the previous year.

Internet, Wifi, satellite phone, email at base camp

There is no mobile network at G2 base camp. We communicate with our office in Bern, the meteorological office and our Pakistani agency in Skardu via satellite phone. Members can use the satellite phone for private phone calls or text messages.

The charges are as follows:

Telephone: 3 USD per minute for outgoing as well as incoming calls.

3 USD per text message.

K&P will provide a Thuraya IP, a satellite terminal as well as a laptop with a specific expedition email address. Sending and receiving emails without pictures or any other attachments via the expedition email address is included in the expedition price. If required, Wi-Fi is also available at an additional fee of USD 500 for the duration of the expedition. The use is limited as the total data volume for the entire expedition (30 days from arrivatl at base camp) only amounts to 30GB.

Electronic gadgets such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, kindles and heated socks can be charged via our solar system. However, as this system relies on good weather, the availability may be limited. We kindly ask you to leave your laptop at home as it uses a lot of power. We would also ask you to only use electronic devices with USB connection.

Hotel and tent accommodation are indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays that are not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

Trip preparation

Getting there

The expedition price includes international flights. Scheduled flights from Switzerland usually depart in the morning, however, the airlines’ flight times are subject to change. We are also happy to check other points of departure for you.

If your point of departure results in additional charge we will inform you in due time. For train times to Swiss airports, please check the timetable of the Swiss Railways: SBB FahrplanSBB Fahrplan

Kobler & Partner will organise the visas for Swiss nationals and bill them separately. Members from other countries have to apply for their visas themselves. All necessary documents will be supplied to you in due time. Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months after your intended return date.

Gasherbrum II Gearlist

  • 2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

    Clothing

    Jackets

    • Down jacket or down suit for expeditions
    • Primaloft jacket or light down jacket
    • Goretex Jacket
    • Softshell Jacket
    • Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

      Pants

    • Trekking pants, light and long
    • Softshell pants for mountaineering
    • Goretex pants
    • Expedition down pants or down suit

      Baselayers / T-shirts

    • T-shirts
    • Underwear
    • Long-sleeved thermal top
    • Thermal tights

      Handwear

    • Insolated shell gloves
    • Expedition down mittens
    • Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

      Footwear

    • Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)
    • Trekking boots
    • High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m
    • Trekking Socks
    • Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

      Sleeping

    • -30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)
    • -40°C down sleeping bag for high camps
    • Insulated inflatable sleeping pad
    • Down booties (nice to have!)
    • Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

      Headgear, face and eye protection

    • Sunglasses
    • Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)
    • Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)
    • Buff
    • Baseball cap
    • Headband
    • Beanie, warm
    • Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)
    • Sunscreen, SPF 50
    • Lipscreen, SPF 50

      Technical Equipment

    • Backpack approximately 60 l
    • Raincover for backpack
    • Climbing harness, light
    • Ice axe, light
    • Walking poles
    • Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)
    • 2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)
    • 3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)
    • Ascender (Jumar)
    • Belay device (figure 8 recommended)
    • Helmet
    • Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)
    • Cord, 5m, 5 mm
    • Sling 120 cm / Dyneema
    • 1 Ice screw (19 cm)
    • Compression bags for down equipment
    • Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)
    • Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)
    • Thermos
    • Pee bottle / Plastic bags
    • Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp
    • Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman
    • Lighter
    • Altimeter
    • Hand and toe warmers

      Miscellaneous

    • Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)
    • Cash for personal use and tips
    • Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)
    • Passport
    • Passport copy
    • 2 Passport photographs
    • Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)
    • Writing utensils
    • Cellphone
    • Toiletry bag
    • Microfibre travel towel
    • Hand sanitizer (50 ml)
    • Ear plugs
    • Tissues, wet wipes
    • Swimwear
    • Photographic equipment

    Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.

Dates

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Do you have a question?

"Grüezi!"

Do not hesitate to contact us
Ulla_Mengel

Ulla Mengel

office@kobler-partner.ch

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Next date
16.06.2022
46 Days
Facts
8047 m
Pakistan
schwer
mittel
From CHF 18'236.00 excl. flight
incl. 3% early booking discount
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