Expedition Dhaulagiri

Standing proud and tall, Dhaulagiri I was only gazed at from afar until the 1950ies when many expeditions tried their luck on the ‘White Mountain’. However, it was not until 13 May 1960 that a Swiss expedition led by Max Eiselin reached the summit. This made Dhaulagiri I the penultimate 8,000m peak to be scaled.

This expedition was also the first expedition to use a small plane to take equipment as well as a few expedition members to Camp 2 at 5,700m.

The Genevan Michel Caucher, a member of this expedition, wrote the following about the summit success: “Three breaths, one step, three breaths, one step, another step ... The thought about the summit pushes us, and at 2pm we reach the summit ridge. Only 400 metres to go ...”. At 6.30pm, they finally did it - they had reached the summit.

Day 1: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 2: Arrival in Kathmandu

After we have checked into the Shangri La hotel and recovered from our flight in the beautiful garden, we visit Boudnath, the religious centre of the Tibetans living in Nepal. Just like the worshippers, we will circumvent the largest stupa in Nepal clockwise, which is called a ‘Kora’. The 40-metre-high stupa is surrounded by Buddha statues, prayers mills and monastery complexes which gives this area a very unique atmosphere. We have a peek at the decorated gompa west of the stupa where we see a larger than life-sized statue of “the Buddha of the future”. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Kathmandu - Pokhara: 

Early in the morning, we take the half-hour flight to Pokhara from where we immediately start our drive across the Khare Pass through the valley of the Mohi Kola to Beni (850 m). From here, it’s only another 3 hours to Darbang in the Myangdi Khola Valley. Travel time: 6 hours. Tent accommodation.

Day 4: Darbang - Dharapani - Sibang

We hike along the Myangdi Khola until we reach Phedi, from where we start the rather steep ascent to Dharapani (1,550 m). We arrive at Dharapani after about 2 1/2 hours. In clear weather, we can already see Dhaulagiri 1 towering above us. After another two hours, we reach the schoolyard in Sibang village which is inhabited by Thakali and Gurung (1,780 m). We pitch our tents in the schoolyard. 

Walking time: approx. 4 ½ hours. Ascent: 650 m. Descent: 100 m. Tent accommodation.

Day 5: Sibang - Muri

Today we are in for some stunning views! We hike through Phalaigaon, descend to the tributary valley of the Dhara Khola and ascend again on the other side to reach the Magar village of Muri (1,770 m).

Walking time: approx. 3 1/2 hours. Ascent: 550 m. Descent: 480 m. Tent accommodation

Day 6: Muri - Naura - Boghara

Every night, we sleep a few hundred metres higher up on the mountains even though the route takes us up and down continuously. We first descend to the Myangdi Khola at 1,450m and continue on the right side of the valley. Behind the village of Naura, we start a steep ascent to a crest at about 2,300 m. We slowly descend to Boghara at 2,100 m. At this Magar village, we use another schoolyard as our campsite (donations to the schools are very welcome!).

Walking time: approximately 6 hours. Ascent: 1,100 m. Descent: 1,000 m. Tent accommodation.

Day 7: Boghara - Lipche - Dobang

We will soon enter the mountain jungle, which can sometimes be tricky to get through. Via the village of Lipche (2,060 m) and the alp of Lapche Kharka, we reach Dobang (2,500 m) where we pitch our tents on a clearing. 

Walking time: approx. 6 hours. Ascent: 950 m. Descent: 550m. Tent accommodation.

Day 8: Dobang - Pakhaban

We walk on challenging trails and cross the Myangdi Khola over interesting bridges several times. Through wonderful rhododendron forests and light conifer forest we hike to the clearing of Pakhaban, where we camp at 3,050 m.

Walking time: approx. 5 hours. Ascent: 740 m. Descent: 150 m. Tent accommodation.

Day 9: Pakhaban - Italian Base Camp

After about 2 1/2 hours, we get above the treeline and soon reach Italian Base Camp at 3,600, which is also known as “Puchhar”. This base camp is in a very scenic location on the west ridge of Dhaulagiri 1. We should try and save our energy as we sleep at a higher altitude every night, which strains our bodies more than usual. 

Walking time approx. 3 hours. Ascent: 580 m. Descent: 80 m. Tent accommodation.

Day 10: Italian Base Camp - Glacier Camp

After about 1 ½ hours, we walk through a narrow valley to reach the headwater region of the Myangdi Khola. From here, the route widens and continues through the high mountain valley and over a side moraine of the Chonbaron Glacier, where we establish an intermediate camp on a suitable flat location at approximately 4,200 m. 

Walking time: approximately 5 hours. Ascent: 750 m. Descent: 150 m. Tent accommodation.

Day 11: Glacier Camp - Dhaulagiri Base Camp

We walk up the glacier which can be covered in rubble, ice or fresh snow until we reach Dhaulagiri base camp at approximately 4,650 m after about four hours. In the afternoon, we have time to marvel at the gigantic glaciers around us and refuel our energy for the coming days. 

Walking time: 4 hours. Ascent: 500 m. Descent: 50 m. Tent accommodation

Days 12 to 40: Ascent of Dhaulagiri 1 (8,167 m)

A time frame of 29 days should be more than sufficient to climb Dhaulagiri 1. With the help of our amazing Sherpa team, we establish and maintain three high camps. 

Route: 

For our climb to Camp I, we cross the Myangdi Glacier which is still pretty harmless down here. We continue our traverse underneath the so-called “Eiger” to reach an icefall. We reach the so-called second glacier field above the icefall. Our Camp I will be underneath the northeastern saddle. Broad and usually not very craggy glacier slopes take us up to the foot of the northeast ridge, where we establish Camp II. In order to reach Camp III, which is at 7,350m, we ascend the northeast ridge, which is known as the Himalaya’s “stairway to heaven”. At the foot of a small rock, we establish Camp III. The last section that separates us from the summit takes us over a seemingly never-ending snow flank until we reach a height of approximately 8,000 metres, where the summit ridge begins. Here we have to negotiate a few climbing sections to before we reach the real summit from where we have an absolutely fantastic view that reaches from Manaslu to the east all the way to the Annapurnas. After having taken in this amazing panorama we begin our descent as our high camp is a long way down.

Day 41: Dhaulagiri - Base Camp Marpha

After 29 days on the mountain, it is time to go home. We start early in the morning and hike up to the French Col (5,360 m). From the top of the pass we have a wonderful view of the mountain we have just climbed. We continue through the upper Hidden Valley over to the Dhampus Pass, before we finally start the long descent to Marpha where the Tibetan influence is still clearly visible. Now we find ourselves in the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki between Dhaulagiri 1 and Annapurna 1. 

Day 42: Marpha - Kathmandu

Drive to Jomsom airport and flight to Kathmandu via Pokhara. 

Day 43: Kathmandu (Spare Day)

This day is at your free disposal. We recommend the following optional sightseeing spots: the Hindu Pashupatinath temple at the Bagmati River is the holiest place in Nepal. Believers pilgrim to this holy site of Shiva, who is revered here in his incarnation as the lord of the animal world, from far away. Some people come all the way from India to worship this God. The main temple is only accessible to Hindus, however, there are observation terraces offering a view of the entire area with all of its temples, shrines, burning sites and hostels at the shores of the Bagmati, where pilgrims perform their rituals. In the evening, we board our plane that will bring us back home. 

Day 44: Flight and arrival back home

The Profilecheck is a fixed part of the detailed travel programme. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skill and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning procedure of this expedition:

The expedition is demanding and exhausting.The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members should have a solid amount of high altitude mountaineering experience and have to be able to move securely and independently through very rough terrain (snow, ice, rock, etc.). You have to independently rope up with a group. Active participation on the mountain, camaraderie and tolerance are an essential part of this expedition and we count on you to be able to provide this.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility. 

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner do not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Organisation of the entire expedition

Domestic flights Kathmandu - Pokhara and Jomsom - Pokhara - Kathmandu

All transfers, bus- and jeep rides

Pre-Expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport, including a 10%-voucher for equipment purchase

Summit fees

Half board in Kathmandu

Full board during the trel as well as the ascent

Beverages during the trek and the climb at group meals (except for alcoholic beverages)

Number of hotel nights in double rooms (look at itinerary)

Gear transport to and from base (pack animals / porters)

1 tent per member at base camp

1 tent per 2 members during the trek and at the high camps

Foam mattress at base camp

Fixed ropes, climbing ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, etc.

High altitude stove (gas) and cookware

Communication, radios (12 volts), at base camp

Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per 2 members

Satellite phone, exclusive call charges

Internet and e-mail access at base camp (exclusive charges)

Weather forecast from Meteotest Switzerland

Solar power for lighting the mess tent

Power at base camp for charging (availability subject to weather!)

Rescue sledge for emergencies

Medicinal oxygen for emergencies

Large medical kit with pulse oximeter at base camp

Medical kits at the high camps

Medical kit for summit bid

Kitchen: chef and kitchen helpers

1 high-altitude Sherpa per 3 members, including insurance, supplies, salary and good equipment provided by Kobler & Partner

Obligatory liaison officer

Nationally certified and experienced mountain guide

International Flights to/from Kathmandu

Insurances

Individual beverages

Individual, performance based tips

In case no roommate can be found for a booked double room, we charge half of the single room surcharge (look at Additional Costs)

Visa for Nepal

Personal medication

Additional costs that may arise due to necessary changes being made to the itinerary

Bottled Oxygen:

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Mt. Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of bottled oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time. 

For this reason, we recommend the use of bottled oxygen for climbing an 8,000m peak. Using bottled oxygen is optional on our expeditions and the amount needed depends on every individual. This is why bottled oxygen is not included in the overall expedition price.

Costs

Checked and filled oxygen bottles have to be purchased a long time before the start of an expedition. Hence, the rental of an oxygen set has to be paid prior to the expedition. The rental price for one set includes one oxygen bottle, mask, regulator as well as transport to the high camps and back. 

In case of damage or loss of the equipment, the cost for repairs or replacement has to be covered by the person who rented the equipment. If the rented equipment is not used, the rental costs cannot be refunded.

High-altitude Sherpa

1 Sherpa per 3 members 

Personal High-Altitude Sherpa

On this expedition, you have the option to hire a personal Sherpa. This individual support will make your experience much more comfortable. A personal Sherpa carries part of your personal gear (around 10 kg) to the high camps and supports you on your climb. Using a personal Sherpa adds manpower to our trip and increases the safety of the entire expedition. 

General

Kobler & Partner have organised more than 5 successful expeditions on the Dhaulagiri.

The experience of more than ten expeditions on the Dhaulagiri show that a time frame of 29 days from/to the Base Camp is usually enough to ascend the Dhaulagiri.

Part of an ascent of an 8,000er are several ascents and descents between the Base Camp and the many different high camps, which furthers the acclimatisation. In case the first summit ascent does not succeed there should be enough time for a second attempt.

Climate

In the Himalayas two special climate types clash against each other:

The southern downward slope is shaped by a subtropical monsoon climate with precipitation maximum during the summer months. The northern downward slopes on the other hand are mostly shaped by an arid continental climate with warm summers and bitter cold winters. For expeditions in the Himalayas there generally are two time frames at our disposal, one during springtime (pre-monsoon) and one during autumn (post-monsoon). Both have their advantages and disadvantages, that depending on the targeted summit are more or less important.

Generally speaking a pre-monsoon time window is better for an ascent of the Dhaulagiri.

Internet, Wifi, satellite phone, email access at Dhaulagiri Base Camp

There is no mobile network at Dhaulagiri base camp. We communicate with our office in Bern, the meteorological office and our Nepalese agency in Kathmandu via satellite phone. Members can use the satellite phone for private phone calls or text messages.

The charges are as follows:

Telephone: 3 USD per minute for outgoing as well as incoming calls.

3 USD per text message.

K&P will provide a Thuraya IP, a satellite terminal as well as a laptop with a specific expedition email address. Sending and receiving emails without pictures or any other attachments via the expedition email address is included in the expedition price. If required, Wi-Fi is also available at an additional fee of USD 500 for the duration of the expedition. The use is limited as the total data volume for the entire expedition (30 days from arrivatl at base camp) only amounts to 30GB.

Electricity on the base camp

Electronic gadgets such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, kindles and heated socks can be charged via our solar system. However, as this system relies on good weather, the availability may be limited. We kindly ask you to leave your laptop at home as it uses a lot of power. We would also ask you to only use electronic devices with USB connection.

Local Agency

Our crew consists out of Nepalese Sherpas and a Nepalese kitchen team. Kobler & Partner have established an excellent sherpa team over the years. In order to optimise the communication between the locals and our customers the sherpas are required to take part in an English language course by Kobler & Partner during the winter months. The preparations and the recruitment of the local crew for the respective expeditions already start during autumn of the year before the respective expedition.

In Kathmandu we stay at the Hotel Shangri-La (basic double rooms). During the trek, we stay in simple lodges or in tents.

International flights are not included in the expedition price. Over the years, Kobler & Partner has built up a very good reputation that goes beyond Swiss borders and has attracted people from all corners of the world. For this reason, it’s best for everyone to arrange their own flights. However, if you need help with booking your flight, we are happy to assist.

Visas can be obtained when you arrive at Kathmandu airport; they are not included in the price.

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the return date.

Gearlist Expedition Dhaulagiri I

2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

Clothing

Jackets

Down jacket or down suit for expeditions

Primaloft jacket or light down jacket

Goretex Jacket

Softshell Jacket

Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

Pants

Trekking pants, light and long

Softshell pants for mountaineering

Goretex pants

Expedition down pants or down suit

Shorts

Baselayers / T-shirts

T-shirts

Underwear

Long-sleeved thermal top

Thermal tights

Handwear

Insolated shell gloves

Expedition down mittens

Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

Footwear

Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)

Trekking boots

High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m

Trekking Socks

Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

Sleeping

-30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)

-40°C down sleeping bag for high camps

Insulated inflatable sleeping pad

Down booties (nice to have!)

Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

Headgear, face and eye protection

Sunglasses

Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)

Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)

Buff

Baseball cap

Headband

Beanie, warm

Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)

Sunscreen, SPF 50

Lipscreen, SPF 50

Technical Equipment

Backpack approximately 60 l

Raincover for backpack

Climbing harness, light

Ice axe, light

Walking poles

Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)

2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)

3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)

Ascender (Jumar)

Belay device (figure 8 recommended)

Helmet

Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)

Cord, 5m, 5 mm

Sling 120 cm / Dyneema

1 Ice screw (19 cm)

Compression bags for down equipment

Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)

Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)

Thermos

Pee bottle / Plastic bags

Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp

Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman

Lighter

Altimeter

Hand and toe warmers

Miscellaneous

Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)

Cash for personal use and tips

Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)

Passport

Passport copy

2 Passport photographs

Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)

Writing utensils

Cellphone

Toiletry bag

Microfibre travel towel

Hand sanitizer (50 ml)

Ear plugs

Tissues, wet wipes

Swimwear

Photographic equipment

Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.