Broad-Peak

Broad Peak

An 8,000m peak right next to K2

With expeditions in alpine style, solo speed ascents and winter ascents, mountaineering history was written on Broad Peak several times.

Facts

8047 m
Pakistan
schwer
mittel
13B

The adventure

Broad Peak is challenging, but certainly manageable.

During our approach via the 100-kilometre-long Baltoro Glacier, we become familiar with one of the greatest mountain regions on earth.

The famous Concordia where the giant glaciers merge is nearby.

Our eyes will wander again and again to the great neighbour: the K2.

Quality bonus: supported by a minimum of two Nepali Sherpas.

One high-pltitude-Porter per three members.

Up-to-date weather forecast from Switzerland.

Broad Peak is the third highest peak of the “shining mountains“, the six summits in the Karakoram in Pakistan. Its broad summit rising up to 8,047 metres reminds of the „Breithorn” in Switzerland. With its close proximity to K2, it is one of the most impressive mountains of the Baltoro region. However, what really makes it special and interesting is the fact that the route to the summit follows a direct line.

Broad Peak was the playground for climbers of small expeditions,mountaineers who climbed it in alpine style or did solo speed ascents. The 12th highest mountain in the world was first successfully climbed by the Austrian mountaineer Hermann Buhl and three of his mates in 1957. They reached the summit without the help of supplemental oxygen and high-altitude porters. On 14 July 1983, the acclaimed Polish mountaineer Kryzstof Wielicki set another unbelievable record by climbing Broad Peak in alpine style in 22 hours and 10 minutes One year later, Swiss climbers Erhard Lorétan and Marcel Rüedi managed to ascend Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I and II in a record time of 43 days. Even though, there are no easy 8,000m peaks due the special rules that apply at such high altitudes, Broad Peak is considered one of the more comfortable 8,000m peaks. This is due to the relatively safe route and the relatively short approach from Base Camp to the foot of the mountain. The trek to base camp first follows the Karakorum Highway before we head toward Skardu in the beautiful Indus Valley. From here, we drive to Askole and start our trek which takes us through one of the most impressive mountain massifs in the world and eventuelly takes us to the Baltoro Glacier. Past the famous Trango Towers, we reach Broad Peak base camp from where we have a clear view of one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, K2.

Day 1: Flight to Islamabad

Scheduled flight to Islamabad

Day 2: Islamabad

We arrive in Islamabad in the morning. The Pakistani capital is the gate to the unique mountain world of northern Pakistan. After visiting the neighbouring town of Rawalpindi or seeing some sights in Islamabad, we will visit the Ministry of Tourism for our expedition briefing. Hotel accommodation.

Day 3: Islamabad - Skardu

Scheduled flight to Skardu. This one-hour flight offers spectacular views of Nanga Parbat, the westernmost 8,000er and ninth highest mountain in the world. As this flight only operates in good weather, it is subject to cancellation. If this is the case, we will go by car along the legendary Karakoram Highway which will add some time to our journey as it takes about one and a half days. 

Day 4: Skardu

It takes a day to assemble the porter crew and divide all expedition gear into 25 kg loads. This gives us some time to explore the beautiful village and its surroundings. This is also the last night we can enjoy the comforts of a hotel bed. From Day 5, we will sleep in tents.

Day 5: Skardu - Askole

We load our entire luggage onto the jeeps. Depending on the road conditions, we reach Askole (3,048m) after about six to seven hours on a spectacular road. First night in a tent.

Day 6 - Day 11: Askole - Jula - Paiju - Urdukas - Konkordia - Base Camp 

Our first trekking days take us through the very arid and almost desert-like region with a few river crossings. After about six hours, we reach the beautiful and well-equipped campsite at Korophan at 3,253 m. On the second day, we reach Paiju (3,785 m), the last oasis before we enter the wild and romantic but dry glacial world of the Karakoram. We stay two nights in Paiju as our porters need a day to prepare the food for the next few days. On the fourth day, we hike to Urdukas before we reach the Baltoro Glacier from where we can enjoy wonderful views of the rugged peaks of the Karakoram, such as the Trango Towers. We continue past Muztagh Tower to reach Gore. From now on, we will be camping on the eternal ice of the Baltoro Glacier. Once we reach Concordia, the confluence of the Baltoro and the Godwin-Austen Glaciers, we will be able to enjoy breathtaking views of mountain giants such as K2, Gasherbrum IV, Chogolisa and , our destination - Broad Peak. The 12th and last day of our approach march takes us along the beautiful Godwin-Austin Glacier for about five hours before reach Base Camp, our temporary home which is surrounded by numerous significant peaks.

Day 12 - Day 39: Ascent of Broad Peak

We have 27 days to climb Broad Peak. Past experience has shown that this time frame is neither too long not too short as proper acclimatisation is the most critical factor for summit success.

With the help of our Pakistan high-altitude porters, we establish three high camps: Camp I at approximately 5,800m, Camp II at approximately 6,600m and Camp III at approximately 7,400m. As Kobler & Partner has led many successful expeditions on Broad Peak, including in 2017, we are very familiar with this route. 

There are hardly any traverses or flat sections on this mountain; it simply goes uphill. From base camp, we cross a section of the Baltoro Glacier to reach the foot of the mountain after about 30 minutes. From here, we ascend through mixed terrain, and after 300m we reach a gully which tapers off towards the end. Our team will fix the gully with about 500m rope. At the end of the gully, we get to a platform where Camp I used to be. This time, however, we set up Camp I about 5,800m above a very steep ridge. From here, we continue via a short ridge and traverse an approximately 35° steep south-west ridge. In the middle of this ridge at about 6,600m, we set up Camp II in between some small rock towers. For Camp II, we follow a couloir leading up to a distinct rock. From here, a ridge (on the left the huge couloir, starting from the last glacier plateau; on the right, the flank we followed from the foot of Broad Peak) leads to the last slope to the summit. We continue over the glacier plateau and at approximately 7,400m, we reach our last camp which is well-protected as it sits between two Seracs. 

The summit push requires a lot of effort as the path becomes much steeper shortly after leacing the camp. First, we pass the two seracs until we are below the pass sitting between the main- and the north summit at 7,900m. Out team will fix some rope on the last steep section (50°). The conditions are decisive for the difficulty of the summit ridge to the middle summit and on to the main summit. The great effort will hopefully be rewarded by a spectacular view of the Karakorum giants.

Day 40 - Day 42: Base Camp – Gondogora La – Skardu 

After almost one month, we bid goodbye to what had become our temporary home and head back to civilisation. In order to add some spice to the trip, we take a different route and walk out to the Hushe Valley via the spectacular Gondogora La. We return to Concordia from where we head to Ali Camp via the Baltoro Glacier. Ali Camp lies at the foot of Chogolisa, the mountain where legendary Austrian climber who together with Kurt Diemberger became the first person to climb Broad Peak, fell to his death in 1957. In true expedition style, we start our ascent in the middle of the night. The sun should just come up when we reach the top of the pass from where we can enjoy a splendid view of the wild and romantic Hushe Valley. On our descent, we will increasingly enjoy the greenness and lushness of the area which will feel soothing after having spent a month on the barren glacier. We will stay the night in Saitscho from where we will walk for another two hours to reach the road head in Hushe the following day. After a five-hour drive we will reach Skardu. Hotel accommodation.

Day 43 - Day 44: Flight Skardu - Islamabad

The flight is only possible in good weather. In case the weather Gods are not favourable to us, we will drive back to Islamabad. Hotel accommodation.

Day 45: Islamabad

Today we have a bit of time to visit the bazaars and buy last-minute souvenirs. Afterwards, the obligatory debriefing takes place at the Ministry of Tourism. Evening flight back home.

Day 46: Arrival in your home country.

Important info

The Profilecheck is a fixed part of the detailed programme. Please read it thoroughly and assess your skill and physical condition. Due to the score required for this expedition, your score will indicate whether or not your skills, fitness and mountaineering experience are sufficient to join this expedition. Your registration is a testimony of your physical and technical abilities to participate in this expedition.

Please take note of the following points concerning procedure of this expedition:

This expedition is demanding and exhausting. The high altitude alone entails several risks.

The members have to have a solid amount of high altitude mountaineering experience and have to be able to move securely and independently through very rough terrain (snow, ice, rock, etc.). You have to independently rope up with a group. Active participation on the mountain, camaraderie and tolerance are an essential part of this expedition and we count on you to be able to provide this.

You have to be able to recognise your own limits on the mountain and be prepared to, if necessary, abandon the attempt and turn back. You join this expedition at your own responsibility. 

The leader of the expedition is responsible for the management of the entire group, and personal support is not one of his/her responsibilities. Nevertheless, every member has to prepared to follow the decisions made by the leader. The decisions are always made in the group’s interest. 

Depending on the circumstances and conditions on the mountain, improvisations and changes to the itinerary might be necessary.

Kobler & Partner do not take any liability for accidents, damages or loss of equipment.

Included

  • Organisation of the entire expedition
  • Domestic flights: Skardu - Islamabad - Skardu (subject to weather, otherwise transfer by road)
  • Check-in luggage (max. 30 kg, detailed information is included in the finalised documents)
  • All transfer costs, bus and jeep rides
  • Expedition briefing at Bächli Bergsport in Bern, including a 10% voucher for equipment purchase
  • Summit fees
  • Visa support
  • Full board during the whole expedition
  • Beverages during group meals, except for alcoholic beverages
  • Number of hotel nights in double rooms (indicated in itinereary)
  • Gear transport to and from base camp (pack animals or porters)
  • Entire base camp equipment (comfortable mess tent, toilet tent, shower tent, ...)
  • Foam pad at base camp
  • 1 BC tent per member
  • 1 tent per 2 members during the approach and at high camps
  • Light sleeping mats for high camps
  • Fixed ropes, mountain ropes, snow stakes, ice screws, etc.
  • High altitude stove (gas) and cookware
  • Communication (radio) at base camp (12 volts)
  • Radios: 1 radio (9 volts) per two members
  • Satellite phone, exclusive call charges
  • Internet and e-mail access at base camp (exclusive charges)
  • Weather forecast from Meteotest, Bern
  • Solar panels for lighting in the mess tent
  • Rescue sledge for emergencies
  • Medical oxygen for emergencies
  • Large medical kit at base camp, including pulse oximeter
  • Medical kits for high camps
  • Medical kit for approach march and summit bid
  • Kitchen: cook and kitchen helpers
  • 1 porter per 4 members including insurance, food, salary and good equipment provided by Kobler & Partner
  • Costs for obligatory liaison officer
  • Nationally certified and experienced mountain guide

Not included

  • International flights, including taxes
  • Insurances
  • Personal porter for high camps (if required, please let us know in advance)
  • Alcoholic drinks
  • Individual drinks
  • Visa fee for Pakistan
  • Personal medication
  • Individual performance based tips
  • Additional costs that may arise due to changes being made to the planned travel itinerary

Porters from Nepal

Over the last few years, we have had very good experiences with porters from Nepal. Sherpas have demonstrably more mountain experience than their Pakistani peers. Sherpas have a long-standing tradition in Nepal and carrying equipment and luggage is an integral part of this very old tradition. Sherpas support the local porters which increase our chances to reach the summit of Broad Peak, even when conditions are not exactly favourable. The fee for a Nepali Climbing Sherpa is a bit higher than for Pakistanis, however, the advantages outweigh the difference in price by far. As long as the Pakistani government permits Nepali Sherpas to work on our expeditions, we will offer this extra service as it is certainly worthwhile.

Personal Porter Support

On this expedition, you have the option to hire a personal porter. This individual support will make your experience much more comfortable. A personal porter carries part of your personal gear (around 10 kg) to the high camps and supports you on your climb. Using a personal porter adds manpower to our trip and increases the safety of the entire expedition. 

Bottled Oxygen:

With more than 100 successful ascents, Kobler & Partner has extensive experience in using bottled oxygen on Mt. Everest, and we would like to share this knowledge with you. The use of bottled oxygen significantly reduces the risk of frostbite, loss of concentration as well as poor performance, however, it increases your chances of reaching the summit in good time. 

For this reason, we recommend the use of bottled oxygen for climbing an 8,000m peak. Using bottled oxygen is optional on our expeditions and the amount needed depends on every individual. This is why bottled oxygen is not included in the overall expedition price. 

Costs:

Checked and filled oxygen bottles have to be purchased a long time before the start of an expedition. Hence, the rental of an oxygen set has to be paid prior to the expedition. The rental price for one set includes one oxygen bottle, mask, regulator as well as transport to the high camps and back. 

In case of damage or loss of the equipment, the cost for repairs or replacement has to be covered by the person who rented the equipment. If the rented equipment is not used, the rental costs cannot be refunded.

Rental price for one oxygen equipment set (1 bottle of oxygen including mask, regulator and transport) is USD 1400

For each additional bottle the costs amount to USD 800 per bottle.

Kobler & Partner have relied on its renowned Pakistani partner agency for many years. Our team consists of experienced local high altitude porters and an extremely committed Pakistan kitchen team. Over the years, we have built up an excellent team of high altitude porters. The preparations and recruitment of the local team for our expeditions usually start in the autumn of the previous year. 

The best time to climb an 8,000m peak in the Karakoram is between the beginning of June and mid-August. The weather is more stable in late summer as this is the tail-end of the monsoon. However, a certain amount of luck is always needed when climbing in the Karakoram.

Internet, Wifi, satellite phone, email access at Broad Peak Base Camp

There is no mobile network at G2 base camp. We communicate with our office in Bern, the meteorological office and our Pakistani agency in Skardu via satellite phone. Members can use the satellite phone for private phone calls or text messages.

The charges are as follows:

Telephone: 3 USD per minute for outgoing as well as incoming calls.

3 USD per text message.

K&P will provide a Thuraya IP, a satellite terminal as well as a laptop with a specific expedition email address. Sending and receiving emails without pictures or any other attachments via the expedition email address is included in the expedition price. If required, Wi-Fi is also available at an additional fee of USD 500 for the duration of the expedition. The use is limited as the total data volume for the entire expedition (30 days from arrivatl at base camp) only amounts to 30GB.

Electronic gadgets such as radios, cameras, headlamps, smartphones, kindles and heated socks can be charged via our solar system. However, as this system relies on good weather, the availability may be limited. We kindly ask you to leave your laptop at home as it uses a lot of power. We would also ask you to only use electronic devices with USB connection.

Hotel and tent accommodation are indicated in the itinerary. Additional hotel stays that are not indicated in the itinerary are not included in the expedition price.

Trip preparation

The expedition price includes international flights. Scheduled flights from Switzerland usually depart in the morning, however, the airlines’ flight times are subject to change. We are also happy to check other points of departure for you.

If your point of departure results in additional charge we will inform you in due time. For train times to Swiss airports, please check the timetable of the Swiss Railways. SBB Fahrplan

Kobler & Partner will organise the visas for Swiss nationals and bill them separately. Members from other countries have to apply for their visas themselves. All necessary documents will be supplied to you in due time. Please make sure that your passport is valid for at least six months after your intended return date.

Broad Peak Gearlist

  • 2 duffle bags, 110l (water-proof, available from K&P at a discount for members)

    Clothing

    Jackets

    • Down jacket or down suit for expeditions
    • Primaloft jacket or light down jacket
    • Goretex Jacket
    • Softshell Jacket
    • Midlayer (fleece sweater or jacket)

      Pants

    • Trekking pants, light and long
    • Softshell pants for mountaineering
    • Goretex pants
    • Expedition down pants or down suit

      Baselayers / T-shirts

    • T-shirts
    • Underwear
    • Long-sleeved thermal top
    • Thermal tights

      Handwear

    • Insolated shell gloves
    • Expedition down mittens
    • Liner gloves, thin, silk or fleece

      Footwear

    • Camp boots (non-technical winter boots or trainers)
    • Trekking boots
    • High-altitude all in-one boots for 8000m
    • Trekking Socks
    • Heavyweight socks, thick and warm

      Sleeping

    • -30°C down sleeping bag for base camp (available for rent from K&P)
    • -40°C down sleeping bag for high camps
    • Insulated inflatable sleeping pad
    • Down booties (nice to have!)
    • Pillow case (stuffed with your down jacket, it makes a nice pillow!)

      Headgear, face and eye protection

    • Sunglasses
    • Glacier goggles (with nose guard, if possible)
    • Ski goggles, high UV-protection (also protects from the wind)
    • Buff
    • Baseball cap
    • Headband
    • Beanie, warm
    • Balaclava or face mask (wind-stopper or neoprene)
    • Sunscreen, SPF 50
    • Lipscreen, SPF 50

      Technical Equipment

    • Backpack approximately 60 l
    • Raincover for backpack
    • Climbing harness, light
    • Ice axe, light
    • Walking poles
    • Crampons with anti-balling plates (customised to fit expedition boots)
    • 2 Carabiners (light, wiregate)
    • 3 HMS carabiners (light, screwgate)
    • Ascender (Jumar)
    • Belay device (figure 8 recommended)
    • Helmet
    • Cord, 5m, 7 mm (for the Jumar system)
    • Cord, 5m, 5 mm
    • Sling 120 cm / Dyneema
    • 1 Ice screw (19 cm)
    • Compression bags for down equipment
    • Food utensils, light, for high camps (bowl including cutlery)
    • Water bottle with large opening (Nalgene)
    • Thermos
    • Pee bottle / Plastic bags
    • Headlamp (including spare batteries) and a small spare headlamp
    • Pocket knife or multi-tool/Leatherman
    • Lighter
    • Altimeter
    • Hand and toe warmers

      Miscellaneous

    • Departure letter from K&P (contains the final information)
    • Cash for personal use and tips
    • Credit card (MasterCard or Visa)
    • Passport
    • Passport copy
    • 2 Passport photographs
    • Small personal first-aid kit (personal medication / compeed)
    • Writing utensils
    • Cellphone
    • Toiletry bag
    • Microfibre travel towel
    • Hand sanitizer (50 ml)
    • Ear plugs
    • Tissues, wet wipes
    • Swimwear
    • Photographic equipment

    Your K&P mountain guide will provide well-stocked medical kits for base and high camps, radios, GPS, travel books and maps.

Dates

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Do you have a question?

"Grüezi!"

Do not hesitate to contact us
Ulla_Mengel

Ulla Mengel

office@kobler-partner.ch

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